Driving south in October-November 2024
On the road to Spain
For the third time in two years, Dick will drive to Spain early September 2024 to pick me up in Santiago de Compostela. Driving alone that far,is quite a challenge. 1446 Miles is not close by and once again I arrive days earlier than I originally indicated.
For the second time this year I walked a pilgrimage, this time the Camino del Norte. Last year, on day five, I had to cancel my trip after an unfortunate fall in which I broke my wrist. It is wonderful to be able to hug Dick again and we both cry. We enjoy the stay in Santiago de Compostela and then drive (it almost becomes a tradition) to Fisterre. After a few days we start our journey back home where we arrive on September 25th. In time to welcome our American friends Riley and Karen.
Looking for geocaches
They made a tour through Eastern Europe and stay with us for a few days before leaving home. We spend a nice time together and because they are also geocachers we organize a geocaching event, of course search for some geocaches together and we also visit Rotterdam.
When Riley and Karen fly back to the USA we bring our camper to the Iveco garage in Spijkenisse.
The Frankia needs major maintenance and given the mileage of 90,000 the timing belt also needs to be replaced. Something we are never negligent in after we had to deal with a broken timing belt in Canada with a lot of damage to the engine block. It happened with our first camper.
In the meantime we discovered that there are no appointments in November that require us to stay home so I start working on a travel route because we are going out again for a few more weeks.
Thorn, the white city
October 17th we pick up our camper at the garage and after we have loaded some stuff to be able to sleep for a night, we drive to Thorn, in the southern part of our country. We will spend the night there because tomorrow at 8 am our Frankia has to be at our dealer Raema for a moisture measurement. In Thorn all the parking spots are already taken and we can’t actually stand here so we park at the bus parking. At this time of year there are few to no tourist buses. I walk to the local supermarket. Even now that the sun is not shining brightly it is a pleasure to walk through this white town with its old cobblestones. When I return, campers have left and Dick has been able to park our camper in a regular spot.
The next morning we get up early. Because it is only a 20 minute drive to Nederweert and (of course) we leave too early, we arrive at Raema before 8 am. After the moisture measurement is done and everything is well, we drive back home where we load everything we need and park behind our house. Tomorrow morning we will leave after Dick is back from the physiotherapy where, a year after the operation, his knee has to be tested. Because we also filled up the water tank yesterday, we already on the road on Saturday October 19th at 10 am. First to the Cito garage to drop off our car. During our stay in Spain someone drove into our parked Subaru and that damage will be repaired during our stay abroad.
The Subaru e-Boxer
While we chat for a while I look around in the Subaru garage because Dick says that I should pick out a new car. There appears to be a recently traded-in Forester e-boxer, deep dark blue. I don’t like the color but otherwise it is a beautiful car and after a short chat, we tell the owner that we will buy this car if he offers a good trade-in price. Dick spoke prophetic words.
Talking about the dark blue Subaru, Dick didn’t even look at it thoroughly, we leave 45 minutes later. Unfortunately the sun remains hidden behind the clouds but apart from a bit of drizzle it stays dry and because there is also no wind, the temperature rises to 62 degrees. The highway near Venlo is closed so we have to drive through the narrow streets. We stand endlessly at a traffic light that only permit two cars at a time. Eventually we arrive at 2 pm in Brüggen, Germany. It is very busy at the camper parking but on the side where you have TV reception, there is still one place where we can stay. After a cup of coffee I walk with our empty cans and bottles to the shop on the other side of the street. German cans have a 25 cent deposit so we return them. Then I walk to the Lidl supermarket a little further to buy wine and finally I am back at the parking.
A toast on the new car
In the meantime we have had a phone call from Cito who offers a good trade-in price and we said yes to our new car. When we are back home we can pick up this new Subaru. Of course we uncork a bottle and raise our glasses to our new purchase: Proficiat…..Nederhand Kraan.(our familynames).
It make sense because our new license plate is: P 199 NK
The Chaource cheese we eat with it (Hannah and Henk gave it to us) tastes delicious. I am a bit stunned because it was absolutely not our intention to buy another car. But it might be a good thing because our old car is now 11 years old.
With all these emotions we don’t want to walk to the city center anymore so we stay inside and around 7 pm I get Turkish food across the street. It tastes a bit less because there is too much sauce on it. At 10 pm we go to bed and dream of cars.
Sunday October 20th we get up at 8 am. The sky is colored red by the rising sun. There is no bakery nearby and because we are in Germany every supermarket is closed on Sunday. So we eat chocolate croissants that we still have from Spain (they have a long shelf life). After breakfast we dump our grey and black water.
Parking in Mettlach
We also fill up with fresh water although that is also possible in Mettlach. While we drive south the sun disappears behind a thick cloud cover.
Halfway we change and I am going to drive again. That is good because I get varied roads, from autobahn to mountain roads and over narrow roads through villages.
Finally we arrive in Mettlach. After a cup of coffee we walk to the center. Of course we take a look at the park of the more than 250 year old Benedictine Abbey where Villeroy and Boch has its headquarters.
The old tower in Mettlach
There is a beautiful old tower, the oldest preserved medieval building in the Saarland. When we arrive in the center we see that everything is closed, the season is over. Only the porcelain outlet of Villeroy and Boch is open and that just happens to be a shop that I am not that interested in. So we walk further through the village to the river Saar. There we see that we are no longer allowed to cross the bridge with our camper. It was always prohibited for +7.5 tons but that has now been reduced to +3.5 tons. Unfortunately the road width has also been narrowed by blockades so we cannot secretly drive over either. In the future, we will have to take a detour to get to Luxembourg.
We pay for the parking at the tourist information and then walk back to the Abtei Brau at our leisure. The parking lot is extremely busy with cars of visitors to the restaurant and even when we enter the restaurant at 6 pm, we only can get a table because someone is just leaving. The food remains consistently delicious.
When we wake up on Monday October 21st the sun is already shining in the blue sky, it is calm weather, without wind and 62 degrees. In a T-shirt I walk to the supermarket next to our parking and get fresh rolls. After a good breakfast we leave. With a detour, to Luxembourg where we refuel and then drive on to Verdun in France. Fortunately we find a free spot at a parking next to a bus station. We soon walk to the center of Verdun. It is now 72 degrees and a sweater is enough.
Cathedral in Verdun
We wander through the streets of the old city center and then arrive at the cathedral. It is open so we walk inside and admire the church and the beautiful courtyard. Of course we also take a look at the monument with its 73 steps that was built after the First World War. Finally, at the end of the afternoon we walk past trees with beautiful autumn colors back to the camper. Looking at these trees has the result that our shoes have to be cleaned of thick layers of dog poop. Fortunately there is a water tap so I can polish our shoes properly. At moments like this I don’t like dogs. We walked almost 6 miles and the spinach with burger tastes good in the evening.
Tuesday October 22 we don’t wake up until 8.30 am. After breakfast we drive to the supermarket next door where we change our French propane bottle. We arrived in the French countryside. We drive through a hilly landscape that is dotted with many small villages and don’t really make any progress. However, skulls in black robes can regularly be seen along the road. Halloween is clearly celebrated here too.
The old town Troyes
Finally we arrive in Troyes where, on the edge of the city next to sports fields, is a large parking lot where we can park our Frankia. After a coffee we walk into town, admire the narrow medieval streets, the old, sometimes crooked houses and of course also take a look at the basilica.
On the way back we put on our thin jacket because with 62 degrees it is just too cold in the shade. After walking 3.7 miles we are back. Because we haven’t seen a restaurant anywhere, I walk to the Aldi to get some food. The spaghetti with lettuce tastes delicious. It is a good thing that we stay at the end of the parking lot because there are sport competitions and in the evening the parking lot fills up with cars.
The next morning the weather is already beautiful, although you can tell from the temperature of 43 degrees that winter is approaching. We have breakfast with Spanish chocolate croissants (the long-lasting kind) that taste much better than the German survival bread I bought in Bruggen. Outside the city there is thick fog but it quickly disappears and we enjoy the rolling landscape. The river Loire flows quickly and looks brown, it has clearly rained a lot recently. Early in the afternoon we arrive in Bourges. You have to pay to get to the camper parking so we park our Frankia in the large carpark in front of it and then walk to the center.
Crossbow ceiling in the cathedral
We already walked here before but now we discover other narrow streets with beautiful medieval houses. All the streets lead to the impressive cathedrale, of course we enter. This church is so impressively large and high. We wander around for a while and Dick buys me a beautiful key ring of St. James (Saint Jacques, French; Apostol Santiago, Spanish). It’s for the keys to our new car. I am very happy with it. In the evening I buy burgers at the Quick. Ordering via the computer screen doesn’t really work because I can’t see the burgers we want, so I order at the counter, which is also possible. We have a tasty meal and watch TV.
On Thursday, October 24, the sun is already shining brightly in the blue sky when we get up at 8 am. We have breakfast with an egg. Just like yesterday morning, we drive into the fog as soon as we leave the city. We change places and I am going to drive again. After a year in which I never was behind the wheel of the camper, it is good to drive regularly again. I also just have renewed my truck driving license. We are now driving in the area of the Puys, the volcanic mountains, and on the horizon we see the Puy de Dome towering high above everything. We ignore Dick’s GPS in the meantime. It gives a detour of tens of miles due to a weight restriction. Unfortunately, this GPS does not register if you can ignore a weight restriction due to destination traffic. Fortunately my GPS (yes we have two navigation devices in our Frankia) is not set to weight so we continue driving on that and arrive safely in Issoire after 135 miles. It is already busy on the parking but fortunately there is still a spot free where we fit in and we park there.
We talk to our neighbors for a while and then I collect all our laundry and walk to the supermarket to start washing.
Laundry next to the supermarket
Actually, after a previous laundry experience when the dryer didn’t work, I should have known better because now I also have to put endless euro coins in the dryer to get all our laundry dry. Next time I’ll really take the bike to the town to the self service laundromat. It’s already late afternoon when everything is finally dry and put away. We don’t go out anymore. Campers keep driving past all evening to find a spot that isn’t there.
Friday October 25 we get up at 8 am and after breakfast we drive to the dumping site. There are two campers in front of us so we have to wait and that waiting takes a lot of time. We discovered that Frenchmen in particular do their actions one by one. We, on the other hand, empty the toilet, dump our grey water and take in clean water at the same time. So there are always two of us busy. But eventually it’s our turn and at 10 am we can leave anyway.
The Eiffel viaduct
We soon drive onto a motorway (toll-free) and we can make good progress. At the famous Eiffel viaduct we stop for a moment to take a look.
This used to be the highest bridge. It is nice to see this viaduct and we continue our way south. At 2 pm we arrive in Albi. Here too the camper parking is very busy but we find a sloping spot where we can stand well thanks to our levelers. In contrast to the previous days there are many clouds but it does not stop us from walking to the center. To the largest brick cathedral in the world. It has the allure of a fortress.
Brick cathedral in Albi
Although Dick thinks it is an ugly church, this one is special, also the inside is completely painted. No corner is left unused and you can feast your eyes.
Of course we also wander around in the old streets of the center, eat an ice cream on a terrace and take a picture in front of the shop that bears my (birth) name “Mathilde”.
After walking around for 5 miles we are back at the camper. It is still cloudy but dry. At 10 pm there is a very heavy thunderstorm and the rain is pouring down from the sky. We can’t sleep for a while because the noise is deafening. Fortunately, the storm drifts away after an hour and we can still sleep well.
Last view on Albi
Saturday October 26th it is fortunately dry but grey. The thermometer remains at 57 degrees. We fill our clean water tank and then, with a last look at the cathedral, drive away from Albi. The plan is to drive to Carcassonne but because very bad weather is expected there, code yellow has been issued, we take the road straight to Andorra. After the storm last night we don’t want to go to bad weather. Soon we are driving on the mountain road to Foix where every now and then a ray of sunshine breaks through the clouds. Dicks Hakuna refuses to follow the road but we know for sure that we have already taken this road several times to the south so we drive on. Just before we start the climb to Andorra we see the problem. A tunnel of 9 feet high. No wonder the navigation refused to show us this road. Fortunately, the actual height turns out to be higher than indicated and we can drive through it safely with our 10.15 feet high Frankia.
We climb further into the mountains. There are many clouds but it is dry and as we climb, the temperature drops. The surrounding mountain tops are covered in snow and just before 2 pm we cross the border into Andorra. We climb higher and higher and it gets colder and colder.
Snowy slopes Pas de la Casa
We have a beautiful view of the snow-covered ski slopes. On the pass above the town of Pas de la Casa, at 8200 feet, it is only 35 degrees. As soon as we cross the pass we drive in the snow. Thick clouds cover the parking at the ski lifts near the top where we normally stay overnight. We decide not to spend the night there but to drive on to St Julia de Loria where we park behind the supermarket. We are just in time to have lunch at the supermarket restaurant before it closes at 3.45 pm and then wander around the shop where everything is focused on bargains for tourists. After all, Andorra is a tax haven.
Parking place River supermarket
On Sunday October 27 we get up at 8 am. Winter time started last night so it is actually already 9 am. Despite a sign that it is forbidden to stay overnight in this parking lot, many campers have spent the night here. After breakfast we walk to the bus stop and a little later we are on the bus to the capital Andorra la Vella. There is a demonstration in the old city center so we get off the bus earlier and walk through the busy shopping streets. The sun is shining, the sky is blue and the temperature slowly rises to 64 degrees. It is warm in the sun. To my great joy we find a nice fleece for Dick who, after the purchase has taken place, immediately declares that he will not try anything on anymore.
Center in Andorra La Vella
We look for a cache on the edge of the city and then we walk around in the (for me) attractive shops. We do not buy anything more. On the way back I get off a few bus-stops earlier to look around in an outlet store on the edge of St Julia. Dick stays seated and gets off further away. It turns out to be a good decision because I find a nice hoodie. Happy with my purchase I walk the last 1.9 miles back.
In the parking lot we see a guard writing out tickets. Apparently only for motorhomes with an Andorra license plate because we don’t get a ticket. It’s quiet in the evening and we sleep like roses.
Monday October 28, we get up at 7.30 am. So early is caused by the start of winter time. After breakfast we dump and fill up with water and then fill up our diesel tank. Even though fuel is really cheap in Spain, it’s even cheaper here in Andorra. The border is about a mile further and we are stopped. After we have told that we don’t have any cigarettes with us and only some wine for our own use, we are allowed to continue. The road takes us through the mountains. The sun has not yet appeared so we take the road which is a bit further south along the Pyrenees. It is quiet on the narrow roads and at 1.30 pm we arrive in Jaca.
Walking to the laundry
That’s nice because we have to do our laundry again. Dick has found a lavanderia and after coffee we walk with two full bags with laundry through the winding and narrow streets of Jaca. It is more climbing than walking because the center of Jaca is on top of the mountain. I wonder if I can still find my way back.
After Dick has helped me to start the washing process, he walks back. I stay by the machines until everything is not only clean, but also dry.
Eventually everything is folded, three bags are loaded with clean clothes and I can walk back.
The latter is not really easy because after three streets I get lost. I regularly have to stop to consult my phone. However, I do come across an elevator that goes down. Next time we do not have to climb the mountain but can simply take the elevator up. After our bed is made with clean bedding, it is already the end of the afternoon.
We eat chicken with rice and do not have to go out anymore. The parking is now completely full. In the evening we watch TV and read a bit before we go to bed at 10 pm.
City center in Pamplona
Thanks to wintertime it is on Tuesday October 29 at 7.30 am already light. After breakfast, with another boiled egg, we leave the parking lot. The parking is nice so we will definitely come back. The road goes straight through the mountains and around us we see the snow-capped mountain peaks that light up in the sun. We only have to drive 73 miles so soon we arrive in Pamplona, our destination for today. In Bask language it’s called Iruna and it’s the capital of Navarra. On the edge of the city there is still plenty of room in the parking lot next to the fire brigade. After we have paid for the parking we walk to the elevator behind the parking that takes us to the level of the city. That is what Spain is good at, building elevators that take you to higher parts of the city.
At the elevator we meet Heinz and Katriena from Trier, Germany. They are looking for the way to the center and would like to walk with us so they don’t get lost. While talking we walk through the park towards the city wall. Every year in July a small group of bulls are released into the streets of the city of Pamplona.
Beware of stray bulls
A crowd dressed in white with red scarves runs in front of these bulls. Of course Heinz and Dick have to take pictures with the bulls. It is fun to see how the men are taken on the horns. Walking through the narrow streets around the albergue municipal brings back my memories of the Camino Frances and I enjoy walking around here again. The sun is shining and the sky is steel blue and we wander around. Then we pass a restaurant and since it is 2 pm it seems a good idea to have dinner here. Katriena and Heinz join us and we get a table for four. The food is tasty and we chat pleasantly. After dinner we walk back. Dick stays on the parking and with Heinz, he discusses the ins and outs of both campers.
Looking for a new raincoat
I walk another 1.5 miles to the Decathlon. I want to buy a rain jacket. Still I don’t buy it because I don’t like the color. And the yellow jacket that I want is possibly too big. At home I hesitate and on Dick’s advice I walk back again but end up with nothing. Oh well, it increases my walking miles. I am back at 6.30 pm. The parking lot is now completely full. There really is no room for anyone else so the campers who are still arriving, really have to continue their journey. In the evening it starts to rain a bit.
The next day, Wednesday October 30, it is cloudy, 56 degrees, but it doesn’t rain. After having breakfast we have to wait a long time but in the end it’s our turn and we can dump. Leaving the parking is not really easy because the barrier does not open. After making a phonecall and explain in Spanish that we have really paid, this barrier is opened and at 10 am we can leave.
As we get further north it clears up and the sun breaks through. We can’t stand at the first parking lot in Gernika and have to drive through some very narrow streets before we can leave this place. Fortunately there is space on a large parking lot between apartment buildings and we park our camper there. After a cup of coffee we walk into Gernika. Of course I want to show Dick this town where I spent a few days after my unfortunate fall last year.
Tile plateau Picasso in Gernika
We walk to the Picasso tile tableau that shows the bombing during the Spanish Civil War on Gernika in 1937. Picasso made it in black, white and grey and tried to convey the feeling during a bombing.
Of course we walk to the tourist information to thank them for their help in finding a place to sleep and my return trip home and give them stroopwafels (syrupwaffles). Then we walk to hotel Bolina where I stayed May last year and in August this year. Unfortunately it is closed. But Dick can sees how it is located, close to the station. Now we can’t eat here, we look for a nearby restaurant where, after a short wait, a table becomes available. We have a delicious meal. Of course, we also raise our glasses to aunt Ank who would have turned 100 years old today.
Trunk of the oldest Gernika Oak
After dinner, we walk around a bit. We take a look at a remnant of the trunk of the oldest preserved “Gernika oak”. Over the years, the oak has been replaced regularly by new offspring. The third one even lived 450 years and survived the bombing of Gernika. The current oak, the 4th was planted in 2005 and is still the symbol of the freedom of the Basque Country. At 5 pm we are back. It was so much fun to show Dick these places.
The last day of October starts with a steel-blue sky and sun and early morning it is already 55 degrees. During breakfast, we see many children walking to school. Special is that almost all of them are walking with roller bags, they don’t have a backpack.
We drive straight through the mountains to Bilbao. It is a beautiful road.
Maman Spider at the Guggenheim museum
The parking lot in Getxo is really too small for our Frankia so we drive up the mountain near Bilbao where we can park. From our spot we have a beautiful view over Bilbao. After a coffee Dick gets our bikes and a little later we descend the mountain. Dick’s bike creaks, squeaks and, during our descent, makes the sound of an airplane taking off. People waiting at the bus stop look at us in bewilderment and cover their ears. Something is clearly wrong but there is nothing we can do about it now. Finally we arrive at the Guggenheim. We look around the outside, take pictures at the enormous spider and enjoy.
Then we cycle along the river to the coast, the same road I walked in August.
Vizcaya Bridge gondola
We stop at the Vizcaya bridge. This 148 feet high bridge was built in 1893 by one of Gustav Eiffel’s students. It was the first bridge in the world to transport people across the river in a gondola hanging underneath. Of course we walk with our bikes into this gondola and a little later we are in Portugalete. The crossing disappoints me, I had expected more of it. The crossing of this river with a small taxi boat, which I did during my pilgrimage, was more fun. Along the other side of the river we cycle back to our camper. Despite the fact that it is already 4 pm, the thermometer still shows 75 degrees. We drink a glass of wine on this pleasant day and enjoy the view over the city.
In the morning when we want to leave we see a large puddle of water under the Frankia, the drain hose appears to be open. We have no idea how that is possible because we thought we closed it. It is annoying because we leave a muddy plain behind. Soon we drive further west on the autovia. I regularly see familiar places along the coast and (again) Dick becomes crazy about all the stories about my pilgrimages, now about the Camino del Norte. Although we already arrive at 10.40 am in Santander, there is not a single spot to be found. Even along the road, as far as you can see, motorhomes are parked.
On our app we search for another parking lot and find one, 19 miles further, in Puente San Miguel. It is a unpaved piece of land next to the railway where we are allowed to spend the night. There are already some campers but there is still enough space to park. As soon as we are parked, we walk into town. Unfortunately everything is closed.
It is November 1st, All Saints’ Day, and therefore a national holiday in Spain. One bakery is open where we enjoy a coffee and pastry on the terrace. It is warm, 77 degrees. When we walk back to the camper we regularly see trains passing by. I was on one of these trains when I had to cross the river at Boo de Pielage. It was either one minute by train (to cross the river) or a detour of tens of miles. We do nothing for the rest of the afternoon, read a bit, do our administration and sit outside in the sun.
The nice weather continues because when we get up on November 2, the sun is already shining in a blue sky. Yesterday evening the parking lot completely filled with campers, a few already left but there are still 28 campers. It is a long weekend in Spain and everyone is on his way.
Pico’s de Europa
After breakfast, dumping (of waste) and filling (with clean) water, we drive through the mountains of the Pico’s de Europa to the mountain village of Arenas de Cabrales. Even though it is only 11.30 am, the parking lot is almost full. Fortunately, we find a place to park at the end. The mountains rise up around us. We walk around the village, do some shopping (there is a supermarket open) and then we find a table outside on a terrace. When we ask, we are allowed to sit there and a little later we order a menu and raise our glass to another beautiful day. The food is very tasty and it is nice to watch the many people walking around in the hope of also finding a place to eat something. At the end of the afternoon we walk back. Dick stays there but I walk to one of the sports shops that are open. I find a pair of hiking pants, on sale, and I really can’t leave it behind. Even Dick says that the pants are nice. When dusk falls, I walk with our laundry bag which is quite full, to the lavanderia along the parking lot. It is quiet there at this time and I can immediately fill the washing machines. Unfortunately, it turns out that the dryer is too hot because one of the toilet mats has shrunk so much that it cannot longer be used. We don’t eat anymore because we had dinner this afternoon. We only drink a coffee. In the evening it is again a coming and going of motorhomes but unfortunately for them there is no place empty.
The north coast of Spain
Sunday November 3, the sun is shining again. We drive through the mountains to Ribadesella where we want to visit the “Cueva de Tito Bustillo”. Unfortunately this cave is closed during winter so we drive on. We follow a narrow road along the coast. Again nice for me because I walked here. In Aviles there is actually a place to park. Quite special because it is very busy everywhere. Then we walk into the city. The temperature is now 77 degrees. We take a look in the cathedral, which is closing soon and walk over a market in the courtyard. I see two beautiful small medallions of Maria and Apostol Santiago. I immediately fall in love with them and buy them. Hannah will certainly appreciate the Maria and I keep the Apostol. The seller emphasizes many times that it is really plata (silver).
Restaurant next to the church in Aviles
The terraces are full but fortunately we find a free table on the square in front of the church. We are still in the rhythm of having dinner in the afternoon. We start with croquettes, delicious but too rich and after we finish our main meal we realize that we have eaten too much. The rest of the day we only drink a coffee and some water. We liked it to wander around in Aviles. Every time we pass places where I walked, I experience my pilgrimage on the Camino del Norte again.
When we get up on Monday, November 4th, the sun is shining again, we can look forward to another beautiful day. The weather is much more stable, beautiful and certainly warmer than when I walked here in August. We drive to Ribadeo. The scary high bridge that I had to walk over does not seem nearly as scary now. The first parking lot in Ribadeo is nowhere to be found and to reach the second parking, our Frankia has to squeeze through very narrow streets. Fortunately Dick get through unscathed and eventually we end up in another parking lot.
Painting at the harbor of A Coruńa
It is not exactly the place where we want to be so we decide to drive on to A Coruna, 100 miles further to the northwest. A bad decision in terms of weather because when we arrive in A Coruña, there are thick grey clouds, it drizzles every now and then and the thermometer does not show higher than 55 degrees. A big difference with the past few days. Because we are not paying attention, we miss the exit and get lost in the narrow streets of the center, then we take the wrong way in an underground road system but eventually we arrive at the parking for campers. There is enough space and we park our Frankia. It is now 3 pm and we call it a day. Although, I do some shopping in a nearby shopping center. Tomorrow we will explore A Coruña.
There are many clouds on Tuesday November 5th, but the sun is also shining and there is some blue sky to be seen. Because there is no wind, it quickly warms up and in the afternoon it is around 68 degrees.
Torre de Hercules
After breakfast we take our bikes and ride to the coast where we find the boulevard. It stretches 11 miles along the coast and you can cycle beautifully along the sea. Even though it is now November, locals still take a dip in the sea. Our destination is the “Torre de Hercules”. This Roman lighthouse, built in the 1st century AD, is the oldest functioning lighthouse in the world and a symbol of the city of A Coruña.
The lighthouse is soon visible and towers above everything. No wonder because it is built on a 190 feet high rock. It is an impressive building. After cycling all the way around it, we continue along the boulevard to the harbor where the houses are definitely worth seeing. Later we read that the windows are the reason why this place is called “crystal city”. When we pass a bar with some tables outside, we drink coffee and then continue our bike ride through narrow streets and over impressive squares in the center. Then we end up back on the impressive boulevard which we continue along.
Stone octopus
Every now and then we stop to look for a geocache such as at a beautiful stone octopus bench. We are back around 5 pm.
A Coruña is really a city to return to. I personally think it is the nicest city we have visited on this northwest coast. Of course I walk to the large Carrefour. This also has an outlet where I (finally) find a new Abus Bikelock (of course on sale). In the evening I stop reading for a while. Lidwien is currently on a pilgrimage to temples in Japan, together with Jan. Both are, like us, members of the Dutch Society of St James and their stories are now more interesting.
Santiago and Tita, motorhome parking Fisterra
On Wednesday November 6 we get up at 8 am. In contrast to yesterday, most of the clouds have disappeared and the sun is shining brightly again. It is soon 60 degrees. We dump and fill up water and then drive along narrow back roads to Fisterre.
The eucalyptus trees around us smell wonderful. The camper spot at the beginning of the village is busy but owner Santiago still has a place for us.
We have been here so often this year that we have an advantage. After a hug and a chat we immediately get a table and 2 chairs next to the camper and then we have coffee outside. It is now 68 degrees.
Victor, my hairdresser and his mother
This year I have already had my hair cut twice by Victor so after coffee I walk to his shop in the center. He is there with his mother and I am greeted very warmly by both of them. Of course he immediately cuts my (long) hair. In the meantime Victor rattles on in Spanish and when he is quiet for a moment his mother fills the silence. I stutter back. Yet I apparently make myself understood because our conversation continues. It is nice that Victor immediately corrects me when I say a word wrong. If I should stay here for a longer period of time I could speak Spanish well. Eventually my hair is cut short (too short for Dick) and I walk back. In the afternoon I visit both China shops in this town. It is special that there are so many China shops in Spain. Dick thinks that everything is the same junk but I like to wander around there. Every now and then I find something nice. Unfortunately the shop (everything 50%) has already been looted because I can’t find anything there. Actually it doesn’t matter because we don’t need anything. In the evening we walk to the harbor to look for a restaurant. The season is really over because almost everything is closed. Only one restaurant is open and we order food. My schnitzel is very dry but Dick has a good piece of meat. Walking back we see a beautiful starry sky.When we get up on Wednesday November 7, the sun colors the sky red. We have a leisurely breakfast and then we walk with two full laundry bags to the laundry.
Both washing machines are already occupied so I have to wait. Dick walks back to the camper to clean and vacuum the carpet. After some time I can fill the empty machines and the washing and drying process can start. It is never boring, certainly not here because pilgrims regularly come in to wash their clothes and we chat pleasantly. When everything is dry and folded I walk back. The Frankia is spotlessly clean when I arrive and together we make our bed.
Walking in Fisterre
In the afternoon we wander through Fisterre together. The weather is beautiful and the thermometer shows now 75 degrees. At the end of the village we say goodbye. I walk on to the Cabo and Dick goes back to the camper. Even though I already walked this stretch from the town to the lighthouse in Fisterre several times, it always turns out to be a wonderful walk.
On the very tip of land near the Cabo it is not really busy. I descend the rocks.
Cabo de Finisterre
Not all the way down because the last part of the rock towards the sea is very steep. Pilgrims are gathering in groups on the rocks, enjoying the sun and the view over the ocean at this “End of the World”. It is beautiful, I enjoy and am grateful for what we are allowed to experience every day. Of course I thank Apostol Santiago that I was allowed to walk a pilgrimage again. At the end of the afternoon I walk back and together we sit outside. In the evening we walk to the harbor again. Now all the restaurants are closed, only a Turkish restaurant is open. We eat there good. Actually the food is tastier than the dish I had yesterday.
After a beautiful sunrise the sky closes completely on Friday morning and when we leave after breakfast, more and more dark clouds pile up. We drive through the vast eucalyptus forests to Santiago de Compostela. It is only 55 miles so we arrive at 10.30 am. There are enough places and after parking the camper we walk to the bus stop. Bus line 1 soon arrives. We get off in the center and are just in time to attend mass. The sound system in the church is not good and it is difficult to follow the service, which is held in rattling Spanish, but it feels good to be here.
Apostol Santiago
The singing of one of the priests is impressive and beautiful. Unfortunately, the Botafumeiro, the largest incense burner in the world, remains hanging. It is still special that we saw that burner swinging back and forth after my first pilgrimage in September 2022.
Because it is quiet and there are no long lines of tourists, we pay a quick visit to the crypt of Apostol Santiago and a little later I am also allowed to touch the statue of the Apostol. It’s not allowed anymore to hug, good that I did that last January. It remains an emotional moment, even for someone who was raised protestant. During my pilgrimages I learned to talk to this apostle.
Cathedral Santiago de Compostela
When we leave the cathedral we of course hang around on the big square, just like the pilgrims who still arrive. After a while we walk to the street where you can pick up a Compostela after your pilgrimage (the church document that formally confirms that the pilgrimage has been completed).
A glass of wine is part of a meal
Unfortunately the meeting point for Dutch pilgrims is already closed and we can’t have a chat there. But we do find a nice hoodie for Dick in one of the many shops. In the meantime it is almost 3 am and we decide to look for our restaurant at the market. It has started to rain so it’s a good place to take shelter. We have to wait a while until a table becomes available but then we can order a menu. Just like the last time in May, the food tastes delicious.
After dinner we walk to our chestnut shop “Delicias de Bohemia”, to greet the owner and buy a bottle of chestnut liqueur and then we walk back to the bus stop. It is 5 pm when we are back. Saturday November 9, the rain front left us and every now and then we see rays of sunshine. We chat with other Dutch people at the dump but eventually leave Santiago at 10 am. We drive south-east through the inland and regularly see the sign “Camino de Santiago”. Every now and then I even see a place where I walked. We decide not to stay in Ourense but to drive a bit further and find a nice spot in Allariz. After a coffee we walk into the town. It means a lot of climbing because the center is considerably higher than the place where we are standing at the river. There is a market in the center, always nice to walk over. However, we don’t need anything so we leave, together with the merchants, now packing because it is almost 3pm, siesta time, and therefore the end of the market. Of course we also want to look for a cache.
Geocache on the top of the mountain in Allariz
It takes us higher and higher up the mountain to the ruins of an old castle and we find a geocache there. We slowly down again, cross the river via an old stone bridge and then walk back. The sun has broken through and the weather is nice. There is a chilly wind so it is good that we are wearing a sweater. While Dick cleans the windows I walk to the supermarket to get some food. Towards the evening the entire parking lot fills up and there are even campers on the unpaved terrain in front of the parking lot.
On Sunday November 10, we get up at 8 am, it is raining. After breakfast with a freshly boiled egg, we leave. An hour later we arrive at the border with Portugal on the A24. This is one of the three places where it is possible to link your license plate to your credit card. It makes me less nervous when I drive into Portugal. If we end up on a toll road now, the toll will be automatically debited. We immediately leave the highway again and wind our way through Portugal along narrow mountain roads. There is no end to it, we climb and descend continuously and every now and then we stop to photograph the mountain landscape around us. We regularly drive in the clouds, but as soon as we get above 1900 feet there is plenty of sun.
Church in the center of Guimaraes
Finally we arrive in Guimaraes. There is a large parking lot in the middle of town. It seems to be full but eventually at the end of the parking is a spot to park. Although it is still drizzling a bit, we walk to the center.
Of course we visit the cathedral.
Thanks to a geocache we discover that this city has strong ties with the birth of Portugal.
The first king, Alfonso Henriques was born here. We climb a part of the old city wall from where we have a beautiful view of the city and walk through the beautiful historical center of this city. There are many people eating and the food looks so good that, when we find a free table, we sit down.
Th nice waitress
A nice waitress serves us quickly and we order a burger, soaked in sauce. It tastes delicious. In the sun that has broken through, it is pleasant. After the meal, we leisurely walk back through narrow streets where orange trees grow everywhere. Around 6 pm we are back.
The next morning at 8 am the parking lot fills up with cars. Apparently everyone who works in the citycenter parks their car here. I’m glad that we can still drive out at 8.30 am. During the morning rushhour it takes us a long time to leave Guimaraes . Just like yesterday when we climbed like a snail over the narrow mountain roads, we now also have to deal with narrow mountain roads where our speed is around 25 miles per hour. When we get close to Porto we have had enough of this and take a section of toll road. Finally we make faster progress. When we arrive in Aveiro, there is no place to park. Even asking some people does not lead to a place becoming available and so we leave. At the edge of the city we look for another place on our app and drive 5 miles further to Ilhavo. There is no one and we park our Frankia in the warm sun. Nearby we see a large supermercado where we walk to and get food for tonight. We don’t see a restaurant in the vicinity.
We also look for a few geocaches before we return to the camper. When Dick is going to clean the camper, which is not an unnecessary luxury, I walk to the center of this town. It is an elongated town where Christmas has made its entrance. Today I do not feel like looking around extensively, so not much later I am back. In the evening I cook an extensive meal: chicken, mushrooms, salad, beans and fried potatoes. The kitchen seems to have exploded and after our meal I spend a long time cleaning.
The main square in Fatima
Tuesday morning, November 12, the sun is shining again. Yet, due to a cool wind, it is only 48 degrees. At 9 am we are driving on back roads again. We hope that it will go faster now because we are driving right along the coast. Nothing could be further from the truth and again we crawl like a snail through the villages that are strung together. Eventually we have had enough and take the toll road that brings us close to Fatima. Unlike two years ago, it is now deathly quiet here and we can park our camper at the sanctuary next to the large basilica. Fatima is a place of pilgrimage dedicated to Mary who appeared to three shepherd children several times in 1917. It is one of the largest “Mary sanctuaries” in the world. Thousands of pilgrims visit this place every year.
Very large church in Fatima
Although most of them come in the summer, when we walk on the enormous square in front of the basilica a little later, there are still quite a few visitors. What is striking is the number of pilgrims who, while praying, crawl around on their knees along the Chapel of the Apparitions. Outside of Tibet I have never seen this. After our visit to the basilica, we walk to the other side of the enormous square and visit a concrete building. It turns out to be a church more beautiful than the basilica. What should it look like here when more than 100,000 believers are present. We wander around for a long time and of course we buy candles.
There are special places where you can light them. We are not back at our Frankia until the end of the afternoon.
Burning candles in the square
Tuesday November 13, we get up early and I first cut Dick’s hair. That is really necessary. Then we shower and have breakfast and leave. We drive really amid the mountains because we constantly climb steep 12% slopes and then descend again. An hour later and 20 miles further, we arrive in Tomar where we find a spot on a former campsite. After a cup of coffee we cross the river and then arrive in the historic center. The Order of the Templars was once established in Tomar. After a cup of coffee we climb the mountain where, next to the castle of the Templars, the Convento de Cristo is located, a monastery from the 12th century.
In 1314 the Order of the Templars, the largest religious order of knights ever, was dissolved as a result of the persecution by the French King. In 1319, at the request of the Portuguese King, members of this order were integrated into a new order: the Militia of the Knights of Christ. This allowed the Templars to continue their activities. The most important sign that marked this change was the cross of the order. It now had straight arms instead of the curved arms of the Templar cross.
The Templar knight
At the entrance to the castle stands a Templar knight with helmet and sword and I take pictures. Quite nice until it turns out that the pictures we take has to be paid for dearly. The amount is shown when he opens a box with a golden cup (the Holy Grail?) Very conspicuously, a 10 euro note can be seen. I grab Dick, turn around and we walk into the castle, pretending that we haven’t seen the note. Unfortunately, only a small part of the castle can be seen. The rest of the castle and the monastery have to be entered from another side. When we pass the Templar knight again, he is busy collecting money from other tourists.
At the entrance to the monastery we get a 50% discount on the entrance fee because we are over 65 and walk inside. It is a special monastery, very extensive and via countless stairs we reach the roof, see monastery cells, visit endless courtyards and take a look in the special church.
Monastery Convento de Cristo in Tomar
It is fun to wander around here. After a few hours we descend back to the town where we enter a busy restaurant. The menu looks good, there is a table available and we can still eat, even though it is now3 pm. It turns out to be a good choice because the food is tasty and at 5 pm we slowly walk back. Because I have eaten too much again I walk on to the Lidl where I end up in a crowd of people. At first I think it is a demonstration but given the participants with make-up it will probably be something else. Because of the many and tall trees in the campsite there is no satellite reception so we spend the evening reading. It is deathly quiet outside.
Thursday November 14 we get up at 7.30 am and after a breakfast with a boiled egg we drive to the dumping site. We can also fill up with water. When everything is full / empty we leave. Dick has to back and forth the camper a lot because the access to this former campsite is very narrow. The road leads directly through a beautiful mountain landscape. On narrow roads and through sometimes deserted villages.
Eventually we arrive at a wider road and we can drive faster than 20 miles. In Castelo Branco we drive to a new parking lot for campers but it is both full and small. We never fit here so we drive on to the parking lot in front of the Intermarché.
Here is enough space to park. In contrast to the past few days it is gray and drizzly and every now and then it rains. Because I have seen a China store and a Decathlon I walk there after coffee. Dick stays home, he has not the need to look around in shops everywhere. Later he will come with me to the supermercado. The parking lot is further from the shops than the other one and I have to walk at least 2 miles. But after yesterday’s abundant meal that is not so bad. I wander around in both shops but see nothing so 4 miles later I am back without anything.
Shopping in the Supermercado
Together we look for food at the Intermarche. Finally we choose lasagna which tastes good.
Friday, November 15, it is still gray and a cold wind is blowing. It is only 50 degrees. At 8.30 am we leave, after dumping our gray and black water. Again the road leads straight through the mountains. After crossing a stone bridge in the middle of the mountains, we arrive in Spain. We are in the Extramadura, a region the size of the Netherlands, sparsely populated, unspoiled and with a centuries-old history. It is reflected in the beautiful old towns.
Flock of sheep in the Extramaduro
We have to stop every now and then to let herds of sheep, that are brought from one pasture to the other, pass. On the plains walk the Iberian pigs, the pata negra. These dark pigs provide the delicious Spanish Jamon. Especially in the autumn the pigs feast on the acorns that fall from the trees. They eat up to 22 lbs of acorns per day. The free roaming, together with this food, ensures that fat is built up in the muscle tissue and the meat gets a nutty flavor.
It is nice that Dick now also gets the opportunity to see these pigs. I myself regularly saw them walking around on my pilgrimage on the Ruta de la Plata. In Coria we find a parking lot next to the sports hall. It is not far from the center so when we are parked we walk to the old part of town. It is deserted, no one is on the streets and after a look at the castle walls we walk back.
In the afternoon the wind increases. It howls around the sports hall and camper and there is no TV reception. In the evening the parking lot fills up with cars and buses. There are clearly competitions, but in which sport? We have no idea. At 10 pm everyone leaves and it becomes quiet outside.
Arco Romana de Caparra aan de Via de la Plata
On Saturday November 16th the sun is fortunately shining again and the wind has died. On our way we see the sign “Caparra”. It concerns the Arco Romano de Caparra, a quadrangular arch dating from the 1st century and the symbol of the Ruta de la Plata that runs through it. Although Dick has already seen the place in my pictures, I also want to show Dick this Arco in real life. So we follow the directions on the signs. These take us close but not to the place where I want to go. Eventually I see the Arco but there is no parking space for our Frankia so, at our wits’ end, we drive onto the stone path that leads to the Arco. Just before the Arco, Dick turns the camper and then we walk the last bit. We quickly take some photos and then leave again. After all, we are in a forbidden area.
In April I was picked up here by the barman of Hotel Jarilla so we decide to have coffee there. Unfortunately it is still too early to have dinner (11 am).
Coffee in Hotel Jarilla
When we enter, the barman immediately recognizes me and we talk for a while. After a cup of coffee and a slice of home-made cake we leave again. I am happy because by driving all these places and showing them to Dick my pilgrimage comes back to life. Now the one over the Ruta de la Plata. The rest of the route takes us over the autovia. It is a beautiful road and we are constantly driving at an altitude of 3200 feet. The trees are beautiful in their autumn colors. At 12.30 pm we drive into Salamanca. We first fill up our diesel tank and then park our Frankia in the parking lot next to the Repsol. It is incredibly busy and motorhomes stay in many rows. After we have noticed that there is some fuel leaking under the car (what should we do with this now?) we decide to walk to the city center of Salamanca even though it is almost 2 miles walking.
View of the churches in Salamanca
The weather is perfect (64 degrees) and you are not allowed to cycle anywhere in the city center. It is busy on the streets. Unfortunately on the Plaza Mayor are wooden houses, apparently a (still closed) Christmas market, so we cannot take nice pictures there. When we walk back we find a free table on a square where we can still eat. I ate at the same restaurant in April, it was good then. Now the food is also good. It is a bit cool outside but inside the restaurants is no place available. After dinner we walk back at our leisure, past the cathedral and the house with the shells. Next to our parking lot is a hyper China that I can’t resist so when we get home I walk there again. Time flies because when I come outside it is already 7 pm and dark.
Sunday, November 17, we get up at 7 am. The sky is blue again, the sun is shining but it is only 37 degrees. We are here at an altitude of 2700 feet. When we leave at 8 am it is still dark but we soon see the sun rising. We regularly drive through fog banks where the temperature drops to 34 degree.
View of Zamora
It is only 46 miles to Zamora and we arrive there at 9.30 am. We are so early that all the spots are still occupied but fortunately someone leaves and we can park our Frankia there. Later that day it turns out that more campers leave. We drink a coffee, grab our full laundry bags and then walk to the lavanderia. We enter just before a Spanish woman so I only load two of the three machines present. The third machine is for her, my third wash will come later. While the machines are running, one Spaniard after another enters and a queue forms. Because of course there are also Spaniards who only dry their laundry and therefore take up dryers, the entire washing and drying process takes a lot of time. But at 1.30 pm everything is clean and dry and I can walk back. Fortunately, Dick came earlier and took also two bags of clean clothes.
As always, Dick has cleaned and vacuumed our Frankia in the meantime, it looks shiny. After a coffee we walk to the center. The Spanish called Zamora: “la bien cercada”, (the good closed city) and we walk along the citywalls. Then we arrive in a busy shopping street. Busy with people because in Spain all shops are closed on Sundays. Just like yesterday in Salamanca I talk to Dick incessantly about my very vivid memories of the Plata and show him the places where I have been. Zamora has 24 churches, it became already a diocese in 901 and the largest number of Romanesque churches in Europe are found here.
The street with the hostel in Zamora
Next to one we find the restaurant where I had dinner in April. There is a table free inside, which is nice because, even though the sun is shining brightly, with only 58 degrees it is too cold to sit outside. We have a good dinner and then walk around, of course past the albergue where I slept. Finally we return to the camper. The weather remains beautiful and we enjoy ourselves.
Monday November 18, the sun is shining again and the thermometer pointing at 38 degrees is rising rapidly. When we leave at 9.30 am, after dumping and filling up, it is already 55 degrees. The deathly quiet autovia stretches north over a vast plateau, the Meseta. At 11.30 am we arrive in Palencia where we easily find a spot on a large parking lot on the edge of the center. We were here last year too but then everything was full. The weather is lovely so after coffee we walk to the center where we soon arrive at the large square where the third largest Cathedral in Spain is located. Only those in Toledo and Sevilla are larger. A visit must be very worthwhile and so we pay the entrance fee and walk inside. The cathedral reminds us of the one in Burgos. Later it turns out that Burgos was also the model for this church. We stroll around slowly and admire the many chapels.
Crypte in the cathedral in Palencia
Finally we descend to the crypt. While we are walking there the light goes out and a moment later we hear the rattling of bunches of keys. While we walk to the stairs we hear “cerrado cerrado”. The church closes and we have to leave the church. It is 2 pm and therefore “Siesta”. Outside we walk to the Calle Mayor, the main street that runs right through the city. It is pleasantly busy with Spaniards who are on their way, going home? to a restaurant? We find a free table on a square where we eat something. The food is not really special and our drinks are charged double. After a lot of hassle with the waitress we walk back. I don’t think I have walked around enough yet so I get some juice at the Lidl. On my way back I stop by the, now closed, bar. I do not believe that a refund can be made if my credit card number is not indicated.
Eventually I get the overpaid money back. Weeks later, when I get my card overview, it turns out that the money has been refunded after all. So next year we will go to Palencia again to return this money back. We will not eat there anymore. In the evening we watch TV before we go to sleep in this quiet place.
Mini pan for 1 egg
Tuesday November 19, we both have an egg for breakfast. I get a boiled egg and Dick fries an egg. In the supermercado we found a cute little frying pan for this purpose. The dumping place is very inconvenient and since we are driving to Vitoria anyway, where we can dump and fill up with water, we leave immediately after breakfast.
Again we drive over the Meseta. It is always special to be on this vast plain. The Meseta stretches over 130.000 square miles and has an average height of 2150 feet. The Camino Frances also runs over here, 136 miles long. It is a seemingly endless path. In the meantime, my experience is that the Ruta de la Plata also has such endlessly vast paths that lead to who knows where. We drive straight through Burgos and then it is only a short distance to Vitoria.
In the meantime, the parking lot for campers has been cut off from the regular parking lot by barriers. After registering and entering a personal code, you can still spend the night here for free. We guess that soon we have to pay here.
In the afternoon we walk to the Supermercado Eroski to buy some food that we would like to take with us. It’s the last big supermarket before we are in France. Again, as almost every day, Dick cleans our really dirty windows. In the evening we cook spaghetti that tastes good after all those meals in restaurants. It gets busy in the parking lot.
Wednesday it is gray and dull and we wake up because of the construction of market stalls in front of our camper. At 9 am we are on our way to the mountains. Even though there are dry periods now and then, it drizzles regularly. We pass Pamplona and then climb into the mountains. We are back on the Camino Frances and every now and then we pass a group of pilgrims who, deeply wrapped in their ponchos, brave the rain and wind.
Albergue in Roncevalles
After stopping briefly in Roncesvalles and taking a picture of the closed albergue, we arrive in St Jean Pied de Port.
A little later we walk to the Carrefour next door to change our French propane tank. As always, it takes some time, but eventually Dick can connect a full tank. It is now dry, so we walk into town. Even though this town is one of our favorite destinations, now, at the end of November, it is dead. Everything is closed, restaurants and (much worse) my favorite pilgrim shop Boutique du Pelerin. Next time we will have to limit a visit to St Jean Pied de Port to the tourist season.
We light a candle in St. Jean Pied de Port
After we have lit a candle in the church to thank for another wonderful trip, we walk back. We read, do administration, eat cordon bleu with fried potatoes and follow the news on TV. We are on our way home.
On Thursday, November 21, I buy a fresh baguette. It’s better than our survival bread. After we washed our dishes, we fill up with clean water and dump all our dirty water and leave. The sky is gray and it is only 55 degrees, but it is dry. We drive north on back roads. Every now and then we can catch a glimpse of the Pyrenees, the peaks are now covered in snow. After 12 pm it starts to rain, sometimes very heavy showers and the wind also picks up.
It is not weather to do anything outside, so we decide to change our destination and drive to Barbezieux. Next to a large Leclerc supermarket is a parking lot. We find our way north on highways and are regularly warned of “vente violente”, the wind is blowing hard. Then the landscape changes and we are driving through the vineyards. The grapes have been picked in the meantime but there are still many leaves on the vines.
The Santa hat is too attractive !!
After Bordeaux we arrive in Cognac and a little later we can park our Frankia. It is 3 pm and the rain has turned into drizzle, but the wind is still blowing hard. The thermometer indicates 55 degrees.
Over a cup of coffee we plan our journey home. We hope to return next Wednesday and Dick call our garage to make an appointment for the new Subaru. We are parked next to the large supermarket and of course I cannot resist the temptation to wander around. It is a good decision because I find a nice Santa hat and (more important) the salt from Guerande. We buy the latter for Henk who uses it in the preparation of his pizza dough. The intention was to buy it in Guerande itself but the weather is not tempting to make this detour. In the evening when we heat up our leftovers, our other propane tank is also empty so Dick can switch to the French propane.
Unsuccessful attempt at repair
When washing up after breakfast on Friday November 22 we discover that our water tank is almost empty. Water appears to be flowing from pipes under the camper, the duct tape that Dick attaches does not seem to help. We call our dealer Raema who gives suggestions about taps that may have vibrated loose. We spin it and decide to drive home even faster. We take turns behind the steeringwheel, we drive north and at 6.15 pm, in the dark, we arrive in Saint Julien le Faucon. Here is a small car park on the edge of the village.
Parking in Saint Julien le Faucon
There is already a camper and we park next to it. The temperature is now around freezing point but there is still some water coming from a tap. So I walk back and forth with a watering can to fill our tank. It looks like the water stays in the tank. Hopefully it will still be there tomorrow. Then we make a bowl of soup and together with toast and French cheese we have enough. We drove 300 miles and do nothing more.
Saturday November 23 we get up at 7.30 am. The water is still in our tank so apparently turning the taps helped. There is an icy wind so we dump quickly and at 9 am we are on our way. First we drive on narrow back roads but after Rouen we often follow 4-lane roads and can make better progress. Our destination today is the town of Meer, in the north of Belgium. Again we take turns behind the wheel. Unfortunately, the Hakuna takes us right through the busy city centre of Antwerp, which means we have to drive the last part of our trip in the dark. We finally arrive in Meer at 6 pm.
Motorhome parking ’t Kakelhof
It takes a while to find a place to park, but Dick finds the spot using a few pictures. We are parked in front of large chicken sheds and you can smell it. Fortunately, it is cold and all our windows remain closed. There are also vending machines that sell food. There is a constant coming and going of cars, so the quality of what is on offer must be good. We buy meat, eggs and potatoes and a little later we enjoy fried potatoes with a burger and egg. It is stormy outside and again we have no signal so we spend the rest of the evening reading. We drove 312 miles and go to bed on time.
Sunrise in Meer.
On Sunday November 24 we are up before 8 am, the sun rises and greets us. After a quick breakfast we leave. It is quiet on the road and the distance home is less than 43 miles so at 9.45 am we park behind our house.
We spend the rest of the day unloading and cleaning. We are lucky because it clears up, the wind dies a bit and the temperature rises to 52 degrees. Even the sun shows itself every now and then. At the end of the afternoon everything is clean, inside and outside and we park our Frankia on the parking lot behind our house.
Parking next to our carport
We won’t bring the camper to the storage until tomorrow. First Dick wants to go to the Fiat garage to have checked what is wrong with our fuel tank. A few weeks later it appears that there is a small leak when the tank is fully refueled. It cannot be solved by the garage because the connecting hoses are too stiff and installed by the camperbuilder.
Although we usually leave as long as possible, it is nice to be home again.
We drove 3885 miles and enjoyed the beautiful and warm days.