Holiday in Germany, July 2024
Time flies and before we know, it’s time to hit the road again. We don’t have much time because August 16th I will fly to Bilbao in northern Spain to walk the last 500 miles of the Camino del Norte. Last year, after 5 days of walking, I had to stop in Guernika because I fell and broke my wrist.
It is now July 10th and Dick is currently picking up the motorhome from our dealer Raema in Nederweert. The Frankia was there to have an old damage repaired. Our levelers also needed to be checked and the electronic control panel broke down so it could be replaced at the same time.
While Dick travels by train and bus, I ‘m cordoning off a part of the parking behind our house so when Dick returns he can park the Frankia there. In the afternoon we load everything needed into the camper. We won’t be leaving until tomorrow morning. Our neighbours will be happy because they return tomorrow from a holiday in Norway and will find an empty parking spot.
New and old shoes
Just before leaving, we receive a message from Antilope, the sports shop in Alblasserdam. My new walking shoes arrived, so we take a detour via Alblasserdam to Varsseveld. When I try my new Meindl mountain boots, they fit well. We had not expected anything else because this shoe is identical to two previous ones. They were worn off after two pilgrimages but are now fitted with new soles. Yet I prefer to walk my Camino with the new shoes and it is good that I can try them out in advance. After a cup of coffee in the shop we leave and soon we are heading east.
We drive in the good direction, the traffic jam is on the other side of the road. Possibly caused by the returning traffic from Berlin, Germany, where the final of the European Football Championship was played yesterday. When we arrive in Varsseveld, we can park in our usual spot.
I go shopping because there is a sale on cans of cola. That’s good because with the current temperatures, it is now 79 degrees, we drink more and we prefer cans in the camper.
Diner at restaurant Enzovoort
In the afternoon we watch the Tour de France and end of the afternoon we walk to our favorite restaurant Enzovoort. We are warmly welcomed and as always we are served an excellent meal. I ask for some extra French fries. Later it turns out that wasn’t such a good idea because we eat too much (actually I do). Dick usually doesn’t eat too much.
Because it is still warm and my stomach is too full, I walk to two geocaches hidden on the other side of town. The walk turns out to be in vain because I cannot find the geocaches. However, this walk did me good, the full feeling has disappeared. It remains warm and at 10 pm it is still 72 degrees. We open all our windows when going to bed.
After a good shower and breakfast on July 12th , we leave. In Aalten, on the border with Germany, we fill up. Even though this petrol station is on the Dutch side of the border, the price of a liter of diesel is cheaper than elsewhere in this part of Germany. We drive further east on the autobahn and park our camper in Paderborn. There is still plenty of parking space.
This morning we had to deal with heavy rain and dark skies, but now the sun has broken through and we see blue skies. The temperature has risen to 77 degrees.
After a cup of coffee we walk to the center of town. The weather is nice and many people walk around. On the square in front of the Town Hall there is a “webcam geocache”. You can log this one if you take a picture of yourself when you are visible on the webcam. We have to wait quite a while before we can discover ourselves on the webcam. In contrast to the Netherlands, where for privacy reasons webcams are prohibited, such webcams exists in various German cities.
Fortunately, the place is not unpleasant because the old town hall is beautiful.
After finally taking the photo via the webcam, we continue walking through this city with his old and monumental buildings and of course we also visit the impressive cathedral. We clearly do not take the main entrance because we have to go through many narrow corridors, cross a beautiful courtyard, walk through a cellar and some chapels, before arriving inside. Outside again we look for one of the sources of the Pader. In total 200 sources originate in Paderborn. Together they form the river Pader, the shortest river in Germany, only 2.5 miles long.
We constantly discover new surprising places so we keep wandering. It is tiring however and Dick is quite bothered by the uneven stones on the bumpy streets. Although both his knees have been replaced and are functioning properly, he now has a lot of pain in his left ankle. Nevertheless, we walk around for 3.8 miles. Then it is enough. The blue sky and sun disappeared and made way for a gray cloud cover. Regularly there are also strong gusts of wind. We buy some food at a nearby supermarket and cook ourselves. It is a simple meal of chicken, cucumber, tomato and bread. But it tastes good and it is enough. The parking is now completely full and it is good that we arrived early in the afternoon.
Duderstadt
Saturday July 13th we don’t wake up until 7.30 am. After breakfast and dumping our gray and black water we leave. It is cloudy and the sky is gray but as we find our way on back roads the clouds disappear and more and more blue sky appears.
After passing endless hills covered with wind turbines we arrive in Duderstadt. Next to a festival site with a fair we can park our camper. Thanks to the fact that everything is still closed we can. A few hours later when the fair attractions are open you cannot find any spot available. All the places are taken by parked cars, even double parked cars. After a coffee we walk into town.
Duderstadt is a medieval town in the Harz and it is a beautiful town. Everywhere are colorful half-timbered houses. In the 19th century Duderstadt remained relatively isolated from the rest of Germany. Certainly in the post-war period because it was on the border of West- and East Germany and therefore also cut off from a railway line.
Thanks to a few geocaches we learn more about the history. The roof of one of the towers is twisted. A legend tells that it was not possible to give this tower a good roof. Then the devil offered to make a roof. When the greedy mayor did not provide the required sum of money, the devil jumped off the tower, causing the roof to twist. It is indeed a special roof to see.
The old basilica is also open and of course we take a look inside. The man-sized statues of the 12 apostles are special. Of course we take pictures, in particular of the apostle Jacobus. I hope he will accompany me on my nextcpilgrimage. In time we are back at the beautiful town hall.
Anreiske, the fortune teller in Duderstadt
In the west tower, behind a blue and yellow shutter, lives the “Anreiske”, the fortune teller of Duderstadt. At certain times, when the bells are ringing, this shutter opens and the fortune teller greets the citizens and guests of the city. Fortunately, we can watch this phenomenon. When we are back we walk around the fair. Now it is busy here. Neither of us are crazy about spinning carnival rides, so we don’t go in the attractions but stick to watching.
In the evening we have a meal in the restaurant next to the parking lot. It is busy with fairground customers and members of the local shooting club, but the food is delicious and the beer tastes good. The temperature has now risen to 75 degrees and outside it remains busy and restless for a long time. Not only because of the loud music of the fairground attractions we are standing next to, but also because of the many, sometimes slightly tipsy, visitors who pass by with a lot of noise until late at night. Nevertheless, we fall asleep.
The next morning, July 14th, the national holiday of France, I am awake at 6 am. Dick is still asleep so I quietly sneak out of the camper. Empty soda cans and beer bottles are lying everywhere outside. I also find empty beer glasses around our Frankia and along the path to the center. They are clearly left behind by party customers walking home. I grab a bag and collect the empty cans and bottles (there is a deposit on them) and I also take the glasses that are still intact. For the time being I can break some glassware because we have a new stock.
Borderland museum Eichsfeld
When I’m done, it’s already an hour later and Dick is in the shower. I woke him up from his sleep with all that glass shattering. After I’ve showered too, we have breakfast and leave. Before we really drive on, we first take a look at the former border between West and East German
The border between Oost and West
The borderland museum Eichsfeld is not open yet, but we can see the former border running through the landscape. The further east we go, the quieter it gets on the road. The parking lot in the center of Weimar is quiet and we choose a nice spot to park. After Dick has called his friend Cor and they exchanged news, we walk into town. It’s quiet in the center. This may have something to do with the weather, it’s more weather to spend time by the water than to wander around in a city center. The sun is shining in the blue sky and it’s 77 degrees.
Ice cream in Weimar
But it’s fun to wander around even though we’ve visited this city before. We take pictures at the statue of Goethe and Schiller and of course we also enjoy a delicious ice cream.
We also take a look at the river Ilm and admire the monumental buildings that Weimar has to offer. Finally we look for some geocaches and then we return to the camper.
More motorhomes have arrived but there is still enough space. Next to the parking lot is a small restaurant (imbiss) where I get dinner in the evening. The schnitzels taste good and I don’t have to cook. At 9 pm we suddenly hear the German national anthem blaring across the parking lot. On a field next to us a large crowd has gathered to watch the football final. Dick stays inside watching TV but I take a look outside. I am surprised by the number of people sitting together and watching the screens and take some pictures. While Dick follows the final in the camper I go to my bed and quickly fall asleep.
Despite the fact that I didn’t go to bed too late, we don’t wake up until 8.30 am on Monday July 15th. We have a leisurely breakfast and don’t leave until 10.30 am. That’s because we chat for a long time with others. It turns out that we can’t park in Dresden because again there is a fair on the parking lot where campers can spend the night. We think that, again, standing in front of the entrance to the fair, is a bit too much for us, so we drive on to Pirna. We have to pay at the parking lot next to the river, but it’s not clear how much it costs, so we drive on to the brewery on the other side of this town. There we also can spend the night. Of course, we’re expected to eat at the brewery, but that’s no punishment.
The temperature has now risen to 84 degrees and the sun is shining, so when we’re finally parked, it’s 3.30 pm, we don’t want going out anymore. Fortunately, Dick made sun blinds for our windows last year. They’re silver-colored and as soon as they’re attached to the outside of the windows, you immediately notice a difference in temperature. The sun is reflected by it and no longer burns on our windows. Still I want to do something so I collect all our (found) cans and bottles and walk to a supermarket nearby. Yesterday morning was very lucrative because I receive a deposit of 11 euros. Not bad for an hour of collecting bottles and cans. In this respect we should have stayed in front of the fair in Dresden.
A delicious beer
At 7 pm we walk to the brewery, a table is reserved for us on the terrace. It is very busy but cozy and when we sit down with a delicious beer and a very tasty meal is served a little later, we enjoy. We stay on the terrace for a long time and enjoy the sultry evening.
On Tuesday July 16th we do not have to drive very far because our destination is Zittau, a town on the border with Poland and the Czech Republic.
I get fresh rolls at the supermarket and after a good breakfast we leave. The road leads over narrow back roads but there are many road works along the way so we have to make a lot of detours. At our destination we first look at the free parking lot located at a roundabout but then we drive on to the fenced, paid parking lot, about a mile further. It is a spacious place and there are only a few motorhomes. We do not want to stand on the grass so we look for a spot on the edge where we park on the bitumen.
On the road with our bikes
Then we take our bikes because (of course) we want to ride to the Three-Country Point. We cycle past former East German flats. They are concrete blocks that are a little less grey than just after the wall fell, but some still look gloomy. Then we cycle on a back road into Poland.
There is a border, but apparently not for cyclists. Of course we look for a few geoaches in Poland and then we see the flags fluttering that mark the Three-Country Point. By crossing a narrow bridge we arrive in Czech Republic and on the other side of a slightly wider river lies Germany. But to get there you have to take a detour or cross the flowing river. Of course we take the necessary pictures and then cycle further into the Czech Republic.
Just like in Poland, we don’t understand the texts on the signs. There is no connection with the languages we know. Thanks to a geocache, we soon arrive at a large lake, Lake Kristyna. It is a former mine that has flooded. The banks of this lake are full of tents and travel trailers and most of the tourists are Czech people. After cycling around further, we arrive in Hradek nad Nisou, a town where an ice cream beckons. Fortunately, I can pay with my Visa card because we don’t have any Czech money. I have no idea what I have to pay for our ice cream, but with the current temperature of at least 81 degrees, it tastes good, but it is too sweet. We are used to the good German ice cream.
Three Country Point
Near the Three-Country Point, we cross the river again and we are back in Germany where we continue our bike ride along the river. At the end of the afternoon we are back and I walk to the large supermarket on the other side of the road to do some shopping for our evening meal. Because the cans of cola are also advertised here, I walk back to the parking lot with a shopping cart full. We eat pasta and watch TV. The weather is good until late in the evening and we enjoy a beautiful sunset.
On Wednesday, July 17th, we wake up by a loudly honking steamtrain that passes our parking. We plan to stay another day and do laundry again, but during breakfast Dick discovers that the laundromat in Zittau has very bad reviews. So we look for other laundry facilities nearby.
Self service laundry in Bautzen
In Bautzen, 35 miles further, there appears to be a good one and there is also a place where we can spend the night with our camper. After we have dumped and filled up with water, we leave. Fortunately, there are empty spots on the large parking lot on the edge of Bautzen and after we have parked, we cycle to the street where the laundromat is located. While I supervise the washing process, Dick ride back to clean the windows and vacuum the Frankia. It is needed and clearly visible when I am back home. After our beds are covered and the clean laundry is put away, we explore the town by bike.
Historic Bautze
Bautzen is a beautiful medieval town with narrow streets and historic buildings. The town dates back to the year 1002. From the bridge we have a beautiful view over the medieval heart of the town. Below us flows the Spree. The city wall rise high and towers can be seen everywhere. We see 8 but in total the town has 24 towers. In addition to German, we see another language on the signs. It turns out to be a Slavic language because this Bautzen or Budysin, is also the capital of the Slavic-speaking Sorbs, a minority. Between 10.000 and 40.000 people still speak Sorbian. Later I discover that during the DDR era the infamous Stasi prison was also located here. I like to take a look there so we will definitely come back.
At the end of the afternoon I walk into the town again to visit the Cathedral. It is the oldest simultaneous church in Germany and has been used by both Catholics and Protestants since 1524. At the end of the day it’s still nice warm about 77 degrees.
Back home I see that the parking lot is full with campers, we will not be the only ones spending the night here. After enjoying another beautiful sunset we go to bed.
Motorhome parking in Gorlitz
We do not have to drive far on Thursday July 18th because our destination Gorlitz is only 31 miles away. It is a good thing that we arrive already at 10 am because the camper spot is on private property and there is only one spot available for our Frankia. We have to stand so close to the wall that we cannot open our garage door so after drinking a coffee, talking to the owner and paying for the spot, we walk into town.
We pass rows of monumental houses. Every now and then there is an old dilapidated building. After finding some geocaches in the center of the city we arrive at the river Neisse. Of course we cross this river and arrive in Poland. Around us are only cigarette shops. One of them also sells ice cream and we love to have one. We cannot pay by credit card but euros are also accepted and we even get a discount if it turns out that we do not have enough change. The ice cream is better than in the Czech Republic and tastes good. With renewed strength we walk further along the river on the Polish side.
Nice ice cream in Gorlitz
Geocaches take us further into the town, we see monumental buildings but also seek coolness between the trees along the river. Eventually we are back at the border, cross the 15th longitude Meridian that crosses the town of Gorlitz and walk back into Germany. We already walked quite a bit but still take a look at the beautiful center of Gorlitz where we cannot resist an Eisbecher with fruit on a terrace.
Finally we are back at the end of the afternoon after walking 7.5 miles. Dick is exhausted and does not move a step but I walk to the other side to do some shopping for dinner. We have not seen any restaurants in the area so we prepare our own food, turkey steak with potato salad. We no longer follow our travel schedule. In the evening we look where we are going tomorrow. Around 10.30 pm we go to bed.
Friday July 19th it is already 68 degrees early in the morning. After filling up some clean water and also dumping our gray- and black water, we leave. It is not yet 9 am which is good because we have to drive a bit further today. Fortunately a large part of the road is autobahn and before 12.30 pm we are in Annaberg-Buchholz in the Ore Mountains. In the 15th century large silver discoveries brought prosperity to this city. Close to the center is a large dusty plain where we see two campers and we park our camper next to them.
The temperature has now risen to 79 degrees, perfect weather to explore this town.
Annaberg-Buchholz
Today we take our bikes. That turns out to be a good choice because we immediately have to climb and descend a lot. In the center we cycle past the 243 ft high tower of the St. Anna Kirche, built in 1499 and inhabited by a family for 500 years. There appears to be a geocache at the top of the tower and since the tower is open for viewing I sacrifice myself to climb the many steps. Dick prefers to stay downstairs and wait in the shade. At the top I am welcomed by the tower resident Marit. She lives here with her husband at a height of 138 ft. for already 25 years. And without an elevator. It is no wonder that she is so fit. We chat and I enjoy the view over the city.
When looking for the geocache I do need a hint but eventually I find the code and discover the geocache a little later. It is a large box where I want to leave some travel bugs (small objects that you want to travel from geocache to geocache). It does mean that I have to walk down and then up again, because I don’t have them with me. But eventually Dick and I can continue our bike ride.
When we cycle past a terrace a little further on, we stop to enjoy a late lunch consisting of potato salad and schnitzel, but in the end we cycle down and up again to explore the corners of this nice town. Fortunately, the camper is in the shade at the beginning of the evening, so it is no longer so warm inside. We don’t have airconditioning but we open all our windows. We raise our glasses on a wonderful day.
Saturday, July 20, we get up at 7.30 am. After breakfast we leave and continue our trip through this eastern part of Germany on narrow back roads. Many village centers are closed because of festivals. We regularly cannot drive any further and often have to follow long road diversions to get back on our original route. Finally we drive into the Czech Republic. That is not our intention because when we get on motorways we have to pay tolls and we are not registered. But we can’t avoid this one. Here the Czech Republic is tucked into Germany and a detour means at least 100 km more driving. Now that we are here we might as well fill up, the fuel is considerably cheaper than in Germany. When I inquire it turns out that we can continue on this road, it’s not a toll road. That is reassuring.
Porcelain city Selb
Just before our destination Selb we drive back into Germany. The parking is still very quiet so we look for a nice spot near the entrance and Dick gets the bikes out of the garage. Selb is known for its porcelain and when we look for geocaches we find them in porcelain vases and pots. Very appropriate.
Geocache in teapot
After cycling around we arrive at the large square in front of the church. On a terrace people are sitting behind large ice cream sundaes and it is irresistible. When a table becomes available we sit there and a little later we enjoy an ice cream with fruit.
With a full belly we finally cycle back. Dick is going to log the geocaches on the computer and I walk to the supermarket. There is only one that is open, all other shops are closed on Saturday afternoon in Germany. Unfortunately.
I discover a Turkish restaurant. Tonight we will buy our dinner here. We enjoy the kebab but get so much meat that there is enough to have another meal.
When we get up on Sunday morning, July 21, at 8 am, the sun is already burning on the Frankia and the thermometer shows 75 degrees. We pay 50 cents to fill up with clean water and then leave. We drive through a beautiful hilly landscape and pass through small villages. When we see the sign for Bayreuth, we change our travel plan and turn off to this city. It is a nice city to walk around and there is a fantastic Thai restaurant.
Although there are quite a few campers on the parking lot, there is still enough space. Most campers are under the trees. We do not fit in those spots because we are taller than most of them and we park in the full sun. After the Frankia is leveled, we take the bikes. The last time we were here we took a ride to the Ermitage (an old palace with fountains and historical parks from the 18th century) outside the city. Now it is time to explore the city of Bayreuth.
Cheerful african clothing
It is very busy because in the center is an African market with music and colorful fabrics and clothing.
A local tells us that the best ice cream can be found opposite the opera (an Unesco world heritage site) so we cycle there. Not a word has been said too much and we enjoy the delicious ice cream. At the end of the afternoon we are back at the parking. It is very busy now. There are not many places left to park a motorhome. We discovered a book stall and as we have a pile of German books we want to leave them so I walk again to the center. I take back one book, it weighs like lead and is really big, it contains all the works of Da Vinci and is too interesting and too beautiful to leave behind.
When I am on my way back home it starts to rain. And not really softly either so I hide for a while. Luckily the rain lessens after 5 minutes and I can get home relatively dry.
In the evening, we walk back to town together to our Thai restaurant Hua Hin. Because of the rain, we can’t eat on the terrace but have to sit inside. A little less fun, especially now it stopped raining, but the food tastes delicious. Through the streets lit by the red sunset, we walk back to the Frankia. We watch TV for a while before going to bed.
Monday July 22, the weather is different. The blue sky and sun are hidden behind a thick cloud cover and when we leave at 9.30 am it starts to rain, first heavy rain, later more drizzle. The temperature is good because it is still 72 degrees. It is quiet on the road, it is indeed holiday time. After an hour and a half we arrive in Neumarkt in der Oberpfalz where campers can be parked on the Volksfestplatz. Because there is hardly anyone there we decide to drive back to Fritz Berger, a camping with a shop. Here you can fill up and dump water. It is good that we can dump because yesterday we did not have that option. When our grey- and black water tanks are empty and the clean water tank is filled again, we drive back to the parking lot near the city and walk around the area.
Geocaches in trees
There are some geocaches in the trees nearby and we angling them out. While Dick stays in the camper, he still has a lot of trouble with his ankle, I walk back to town. The center consists of a long square surrounded by beautiful colored houses and small shops everywhere. And more important, now, after the weekend, all of them are open. It is quite busy and there are many people walking around. At the end of the afternoon I am back. We eat leftovers so I don’t have to go out to get food. We do some administration, that has to be done too, read and watch TV.
At 7 am the next morning, Tuesday, July 23, we are wide awake. The sun is already shining. After breakfast we leave. Clouds gaining the upper hand and again it starts to rain, soon it‘s raining heavily. It is a good thing that we did not wash our camper yet. The rain splashes high up against the side. Near our destination we take the wrong way due to road closures but quickly we find the right way via a back road. At 11.30 am we arrive at a large parking lot next to the river in Neuhaus am Inn.
View of Schärding in Oostenrijk
The water in the Inn is very high, caused by the many rains that all of Europe had to endure in the spring. We have a beautiful view of the Austrian city of Schärding on the other side of the river. After our coffee we take the bikes to explore that town. Unnoticed we cross the border halfway along the river and cycle through narrow picturesque streets with beautifully colored houses. Schärding is a small historic town that used to be on an important trade route. Salt from Hallein was transported to the city over the river and then traded there for spices, glass or wine from Italy.
Colored facades in Schärding
Due to this lively trade this town had many medieval organizations that united people with the same profession. The facades of the houses on the streets and squares go back to these organisations and different colors indicate which craft was located in which building. Blue for bakers, red for butchers, brown for tanners and dyers and yellow and green for beer and wine houses.
In 2016, Schärding celebrated 700 years city rights and all these colored buildings have been restored. Of course, we look for some geocaches and drive along the river. It is clearly visible how the water of the Inn regularly floods large parts of this town. Unfortunately, most of Schloss Scharding is no longer there. It was built at the end of the 12th century to control shipping traffic on the river Inn and collect tolls, but was destroyed by a fire in 1724. Now only a few towers are still visible. After a wonderful bike ride, some geocaches found and an ice cream on the market square, we cycle back to the camper on the other side of the river.
Diner at Brauhaus sur Bum’s
In the evening we walk to Brauhaus zur Bums’n. The name dates back to the time when barrels of beer were delivered by horse and cart and rolled in via a sloping corridor until they hit the bar (Bums’n) and came to a standstill. The food is delicious and with a glass of beer we are in a good place. Definitely this place is worth to return to.
When we get up at 7:30 on Wednesday July 24th, the sun has disappeared and we only see dark grey clouds, but after some rain they disappear and again there is blue sky and sun.
After a long traffic jam near Munich we arrive in Dachau where we find a place behind the parking lot in front of the station to park our camper. We left early morning and now it is 11:30 am so we grab our bikes and ride to the former concentration camp Dachau. When we arrive it is very busy, buses full of tourists are unloaded and many groups walk through the camp. The sun is shining in a steel blue sky and it is warm so it is difficult to imagine what it was like here during the war years. After walking around for a while I have had enough of this place and want to leave.
We find Buchenwald, a former concentration camp near Weimar, more impressive. Even though we visited that camp several times, it was always in the winter with cold, snow and fog and we often walked around there alone. Both camps show what happens in a war and make you think about the cruelty a person is capable of. You will never be able to understand.
To recover from the horrors shown, we take a look at the Churches that have been built at the back of the site. The Jewish Monument is impressive but also the “Versoehnungs kirche”, a church built like a road that slowly enters the dept, it is a symbol of suffering and death but also resistance .
Then we walk on past the watchtower to the cross-shaped monastery on the other side of the barbed wire. With the involvement of some former prisoners of Dachau it was built in 1964 and became the Monastery “Karmel Heilig Blut”. The intention was to create, next to this place of horrors, a place of prayer and a living sign of Hope.
Apostol Santiago in the shop window
At the shop of the monastery we find a small statue of Jacobus. I was raised protestant and don’t have much to do with Saints, but on my pilgrimages, Jacobus, Apostol Santiago, has become dear to me. Dick buys this beautiful handmade copper statue. It is the last one.
We cycle back to the camper and slowly return to the present. Because I have to make miles, I walk into town. The contrast with what we experienced earlier this day could not be greater in the busy shopping street. In the evening we get food in town, kebab again, but it tastes good.
On Thursday, July 25, we are up again at 7.30 am and after having breakfast with our last survival bread, we leave for Augsburg. We only have to drive 38 miles and arrive at the parking along the river on the edge of Augsburg at 10.30 am. Good that we are early because there are not many spots for longer campers. We find a spot next to the fast-flowing river. The sound of the rapids is clearly audible. While Dick gets the bikes, I gather all our laundry. It is laundry day again and Dick has found a laundromat not far from this parking. When we arrive, there is no one and it is clean. While I load all our laundry into the machines, Dick cycles back to the camper to vacuum and clean the window. He reappears when the drying process is almost finished. I am always amazed how Dick always manages to time this so well. At 2.30 pm everything is put away, the beds are covered with clean sheets and we can explore the city.
St. Jacobs church in Augsburg
The town square is very lively because jets of water spray out of the ground, which attracts many children and their parents. A geocache brings us to the Stadtbucherei, a huge library. After some inquiries we manage to find the book that hides a geocache. In front of the building, a terrace beckons and we eat something. Tonight we only have to eat a sandwich. After one last look at the Jacobs church where statues of pilgrims can be seen, we cycle back to our house on wheels. There is no wind and the sun is burning, the temperature has risen to 86 degrees and we do nothing.
Friday July 26 we get out of bed at 7.30 am, it is only 66 degrees so still nice and cool. Before leaving we dump our grey and black water. Yesterday we filled our fresh water tank by walking back and forth with our watering can. We drive to Kempten on quiet roads where we arrive at 10.30 am. There is only one spot where we can park but then two campers leave and there is enough space. We are now in the mountains because the parking lot is at an altitude of 2132 ft.
Kempten city center
Of course we go out for a walk and after we have climbed up to old Roman ruins and enjoyed a beautiful view of the town, we descend and end up in the cozy city center. It is busy and all the terraces are occupied. No wonder because the weather is good, the sun is shining in a steel blue sky and it is 83 degrees. We also sit down on a terrace to have a drink. After we have visited the old basilica of St. Lorenz, where a cannonball is still high in the church wall, Dick walks back to the camper while I look around in the shops.
To buy or not to buy ??
We are in the Allgau Alps and so there are a few sport shops, my favorite shops. In the sales I actually find a nice pair of shorts in the color turquoise. I try them on and they fit like a glove. Still I doubt whether I should buy them, should I wear them? But after going outside twice, calling Dick and consulting my sister Hannah, I buy the shorts anyway. Nice, I can take them with me on my Camino. Overwhelmed by my purchase I walk back and leave again to buy some juice. We are almost out of juice. No wonder because it has been warm for days. Even now the temperature does not drop below 83 degrees. In the evening we watch the opening ceremony of the Olympic Games in Paris. I do not see everything because, due to the large amount of fresh air, I fall asleep at 10.30pm
Saturday July 27, we get up early, before 7 am. Our plan is to drive to Konstanz on Lake Konstance. It takes some time to find a good route because our Hakuna sends us through Switzerland and we don’t want to drive through there. With our heavy camper we have to buy a toll card there and we don’t feel like doing that. We are on our way at 8 am and are now really driving through the mountains. We pass the watershed between the Rhine and the Danube and see beautiful snow-capped mountains looming to the side of us. Due to road works we have to make many detours. When we are on a detour again around 11.30 am we pass the town of Schluchsee. It looks very cozy and is situated on the lake in a sunny spot. We take a look at the parking right on the lake and when it turns out that there is a spot we park our camper there. When I want to pay I see a receipt stuck on the pole. Possibly from people who left earlier. In any case, the proof of payment is still valid for a full day, so we can park for free and don’t have to pay 12 euros. Thanks to the other motorhome.
Cycling around the Schluchsee
On the other side of the lake is a geocache that I would like to find, so we grab our bikes and set off. I take my swimming gear with me because the cache is on an island in the lake. Unfortunately, when we get there, the road to the lake turns out to be blocked by the local fishing association. They tell me that the cache is no longer on the island, the area is also protected because of breeding birds. I may swim but there is nothing. So we decide to go on, we will inform the owner of the geocache. We continue our bike ride, look for a few more geocaches and arrive back at our parking lot at the end of the afternoon. It is now completely filled with campers and cars and you really can’t find a spot anymore. When we buy the ingredients for a spaghetti meal in the village, it starts to rain. It was too warm today. Fortunately, it remains a short, heavy rain shower and it stays dry for the rest of the evening. We do have trouble with our English neighbor who is barbecuing just below our window. The stench is great and it takes until late in the evening before we get rid of the food smells in our Frankia. Fortunately, this does not happen often when we are parked.
Sunday, July 28, 2024, it is heavily clouded and cold. For a long time we are unusual with temperatures of 60 degrees. I am awake before seven and because Dick is still asleep, I grab my exciting book “der Schrei des Löwen”. There are only a few pages left, but last night I was too tired to finish it. We get up at 7.30 am, Dick also awaked. After breakfast and dumping, we leave. We drive through the mountains of southern Germany. Unfortunately, the clouds are hanging low and it is gloomy. But it stays dry. There are many ski resorts around us and everywhere we see ski lifts and slopes, all still green. Parallel to the border with Switzerland we drive to Weil am Rhein.
This place is located on a three country point with France and Switzerland and we can park our camper at the Laguna swimming pool. It is 10.15 am and still early, the crowds at the swimming pool have yet to come. When I go inside to pay for our spot there is already a line of French people.
River between Germany and Switzerland
We drink a cup of coffee and then Dick takes the bikes and we ride through a forest area to the border river. When we cross this river we are in Switzerland, without border control. Later it turns out that there is also no border controls on the normal road. It is Sunday and then the border posts are closed and you can drive into Switzerland without any checks.
Unfortunately it is still very cloudy and we see threatening clouds hanging but it stays dry. In the city center of Basel we try to find a place on a terrace to have a drink. All the terraces are full. Everyone is eating because it is lunchtime. When it turns out that a cup of coffee costs € 7.50 we go on. We stop in the middle of the bridge to watch the people who let themselves drift with the strong current. How they get to the side is not visible from here, but later, when we cycle into France, no one is drifting anymore.
We are in France
We continue riding along the Rhine and without any problems we cross another border at the end of the afternoon. We are in France. There it is busier along the river because there are deck chairs everywhere where people are sitting, enjoying the view over the river. The ice cream beckons and so we cycle on, cross the Rhine again and are back in Germany where we sit down on the busy terrace of an ice cream parlour. We cannot order anything at the counter, we have to wait, but after 15 minutes still no one arrives so we leave and cycle back. We do cross Switzerland again. That is the best way because of the enormous railway complex that we have to pass. But eventually we are back home at the end of the afternoon. The sun has started to shine nicely and it is not so cold anymore with 72 degrees. While Dick puts the bikes away I walk to the restaurant next to the Laguna and make a reservation for tonight. Even though there is a strong wind blowing we can still sit on the terrace in the evening. The food is tasty, not very special but we do not have to cook ourselves. In the evening we watch TV. All the spots are now occupied at this parking lot but that is logical because it is next to the highway from Germany to Switzerland. At 10.30 pm we are in bed.
Monday morning, July 29, we get up at 7:30 am and leave after breakfast. It’s good that we’re early because now we can drive off the parking lot a bit easier. The entrance (and exit) to this parking lot is very narrow. We drive onto the German Autobahn and turn off at Baden-Baden. There are threatening signs everywhere that trucks are not allowed to cross the mountain passes.
On the road to the Col de Bonhomme
However, once we have the Autobahn behind us and drive through the French Vosges, it turns out that the Col du Bonhomme is no problem to drive. We climb steadily and drive through beautiful surroundings. From the pass height at 3114 ft. we descend until we arrive in Gerardmer. It is deathly quiet in the parking lot in town and we find a nice spot in the corner. Although we are standing in the full sun and the temperature is still rising, the side of the camper where the refrigerator is located remains in the shade all day. We walk through the cozy town and do some shopping for our evening meal. We don’t want to eat out every night. Early in the evening the parking lot fills up. Many people have put out their awnings and sit outside because inside it’s too hot. The temperature has risen to 88 degrees. Still, it is not too bad inside our Frankia.
Apply sun protection
Dick has applied the reflective sun blinds to the outside of the windows and that certainly provides cooling. We may also be a bit more used to the heat by now. In the evening we eat steaks with fried potatoes and salad and it tastes good. We read and watch TV. Fortunately it cools down a bit later in the evening.
On Tuesday July 30 we have breakfast with some currant buns, we still had and leave at 9 am. It is already 68 degrees. We drive alternately through France and Germany. Not really convenient because every bordercrossing to Germany has police checks so traffic jams form everywhere. At 12.30 pm we arrive in Wissembourg, a picturesque town in the far north-east of France, it is right on the German border. We dump at one of the parking lots on the edge of the town. Unfortunately we can’t fill up with water. You need a separate “Pas d’ étappe” card for that and we don’t have that. But we still have 30% water so we can still manage without water.
The parking lot isn’t really inviting so when our waste watertanks are empty we drive on to the parking lot at the swimming pool. There we actually manage to get a spot that is partly under the trees. Which is nice because the temperature keep rising. This spot is available because the swimming pool isn’t open yet. An hour later you can forget about being here because it’s full of parked cars. We do need drinking water so I cycle to the nearest supermarket to get bottles of water. When I get back we walk into Wissembourg. It’s now 90 degrees but it feels like 97 degrees. We regularly stay overnight in this town but it never gets boring to walk here.
Historic Wissembourg
It’s a picturesque fortress town with historic buildings and has charm. When you walk through the narrow streets you are regularly surprised by beautiful old buildings and views. As always, geocaches bring us to beautiful places. We enjoy walking around. Because our restaurant is not yet open at the end of the afternoon, we drink a beer on a terrace and finally at 6 pm we walk to the terrace of restaurant La Rose.
Delicious, a glass of cold beer
Here we find a table, quickly raise our glass and enjoy a delicious meal. After dinner we walk back. The swimming pool is now closed and a few campers parked in the place where cars were standing. It remains very warm and we go to bed early. All windows stay wide open.
Wednesday is already the last day of the month and after breakfast with survival bread, we leave. It is 9 am but in the bright sun it is already 83 degrees. We cross the border near a monument. In a circle there are pillars commemorating the founding in 1952 of the first European Community. France, Germany, Italy, Belgium, Luxembourg and the Netherlands were involved in this.
Then we drive on to Pirmasens. At the parking lot for campers we can fill up with water and empty our grey- and black water tanks. We love it when we find parkings like this because every now and then we go to places where that is not possible. At 10.30 am we continue our trip and an hour later we arrive in Saarlouis. We are back in Germany. There is plenty of space in Saarlouis. Unfortunately, the world is grey and dull and it is drizzling. We found many (empty) German cans again, so we walk to a supermarket to hand them in and then we take the bikes to explore the city. Saarlouis was founded in 1680 by the French King Louis XIV and expanded into a Bastion of the Kingdom of France. The king found the city so beautiful that he personally gave it his name.
The fortifications are still clearly visible and are also used. For example, our favorite Greek restaurant Delphi is housed in one of the fortifications (Bastion VI). The rain stopped and it is nice to cycle around.
Mini library in the tree
Of course, our route is determined by geocaches and we discover beautiful spots along the river Saar. Finally, we are back home at 5.30 pm. The motorhome is now in the bright sun and it is hot inside, so we move and park more in the shade of the trees. It immediately feels cooler. Then we leisurely walk to the city, cross the Saar and walk along the various bastions.
Diner at the Greek restaurant
Unfortunately, we cannot eat outside on the terrace at our Greek restaurant, all tables are reserved, but we get a table inside the bastion. Once again, we eat good and the wine tastes delicious. The water at this Greek restaurant remains expensive, because we pay €7.50 for a bottle. In the warm summer evening we leisurely walk back and watch TV for a while before going into bed.
Thursday August 1, it rains and we also hear thunder regularly. We only have to drive 35 miles but in pouring rain. Fortunately it is dry when we arrive in Mettlach. Again we are in a porcelain town, this time because of the presence of Villeroy and Boch who have established themselves in the old abbey. So you see shops with porcelain everywhere in this town. There are already a few campers on the parking lot at the Abtei Brau and we park our camper next to it. While Dick does all kinds of odd jobs around the camper I walk to the tourist information to pay for our parking and then I walk to the WMF outlet shop.
WMF coffee machine
The last time we bought a coffee machine here. We are happy with this machine but unfortunately the milk jug broke. We pressed the iron rod too hard against the bottom, which created a hole. Because it is broken glass, they cannot show goodwill.
So I buy a new milk jug at full price. Well, it is an outlet shop and we have seen that it is really cheaper here than in a regular WMF shop. When I walk outside it is pouring rain and I wait under the canopy for a while.
Fortunately the rain stops quickly and I can walk on.
Closed path through the par
The path through the park of the former Abbey is closed, they are still affected by the high water and landslides of May this year but I walk further on. I have no idea how to get to the shops either. Immediately after the floods it looked much worse so it is not clear to me why the path is still barricaded.
I wander through various shops, look around, buy drinks and then I walk back. We read a bit and watch the Olympic games. Neither of us want to go out anymore. The rain clouds have now dissipated, there is blue sky and the sun is shining again. So when we walk to the Abtei Brau at 6.30 pm we look for a table on the terrace. Inside is no place.
Diner in the Abtei Brau in Mettlach
The Abtei Brau in Mettlach is almost our regular pub and again we eat good. The glass of beer tastes very good with the current temperature of 72 degrees. We look at the guests around us. They eat from the “all you can eat” buffet, consisting of chicken wings. Not something for us but people really enjoy themselves. We look in amazement at someone who, while we are sitting here, helps himself at least 7 times at the buffet and return with plates overflowing. After our, also copious, meal we walk back (only 200 ft) and watch TV.
On Friday August 2, we already showering before seven. The Netto supermarket next to the car park opens at 7am so I can buy some fresh rolls. After breakfast we leave. We are early because we want a spot in Redange in Luxembourg and that is popular with motorhomes. After we have filled up in Remich, the diesel is still cheaper in Luxembourg, we drive on back roads through the hilly landscape of Luxembourg. At 10.15 am we arrive in Redange. Unfortunately all spots are already (or still) occupied. Normally there is a possibility to park next to it but there are road works so we can’t park anywhere. We look at the map and put Arlon in our GPS. This Belgian place, at the backside of the local fire station, is 11 miles away and at 10.40 am we arrive there. Now we are lucky because only 4 of the 5 available spots are occupied and we can park here. It is a good thing that we left early this morning. We drink a cup of coffee, we deserve it and then take the bikes to ride around a bit. There is a nice geocaching route in the forest nearby.
Geocache route Arlon
Once we arrive at the edge of the forest in the hilly landscape, the heavy rain of the past few weeks seems to be playing tricks on us. The forest path is very narrow and steep and Dick pedals his way up without making any progress. His wheels spin in the mud. So we have to return empty-handed. We will save this mountainous route for drier times. After 9 miles we are back and then I walk to the center of Arlon. It is now 77 degrees and it is warm and that is noticeable when I walk around. The center is deserted, there are few people on the street and many shops are closed. So I quickly walk back to our parking lot behind the fire station. We do not go to bed too late, tomorrow is an early day.
Geocache event with “Speurzus” in Enscherange
We get up on Saturday August 3 at 6.30 am and after a quick shower, a quick breakfast and dumping our black water, we leave. It is quiet on the road but we have to drive 45 miles to Enscherange, a small town in Luxembourg. There is a geocache event at 9.30 am and we want to attend it.
The event is organised by one of the geocachers from our neighbourhood who is on holiday here. So it is nice to attend this one. Despite a few diversions due to closed roads, we are neatly on time and soon chat with each other. After an hour we say goodbye again and drive on to Prüm in Germany. The landscape in this part of Luxembourg is beautiful and very rocky. It is called the “Switzerland of Luxembourg”.
Parking place for motorhomes in Prüm
Fortunately, there is enough space in Prüm and we park at the edge of town. Even though there are still many clouds, the sun is shining and the thermometer shows 72 degrees. There are many shops near the parking lot. Unfortunately, only supermarkets are open. All other shops are closed, like everywhere in Germany. After all, it is Saturday afternoon and then, around 1 pm, its closing time. But there are enough supermarkets to do some last-minute shopping and I spend the rest of the afternoon walking around town. I also look for a geocache. I already bought ingredients for our evening meal when I discover a Greek restaurant on the large square. Eating there will have to wait until next time because tonight we are cooking ourselves, meatballs with mushrooms, rice and salad with tzatziki. A lot of fat splashes around because of the frying of the meatballs and afterwards I have to scrub vigorously to get everything around our gas stove grease-free again. In the evening it suddenly cools down. For the first time, we close the outside door early. The temperature is now more pleasant to sleep.
On Sunday August 4 we get up at 8 am and leave after breakfast. We soon drive over a drizzly motorway. It’s a good thing the motorhome is already dirty because the water splashes high against the side of the Frankia. At 12.30 pm the rain finally stops and sun and blue skies appear, the weather we became accustomed to the past few days. Although, there are still quite a few clouds to be seen. This morning our toilet cassette broke down. The top slide won’t close anymore. We don’t know whether it is reparable or not but to be on the safe side we drive to Obelink, a camping shop in Winterswijk. There we can look for a new one. It is incredibly busy at Obelink and we manage to get a last spot to park. It seems like every camper and travel trailer owner is walking around here. In the shop too you have to make your way through the people. The toilet cassette turn out to be just as expensive when you order them as when you buy them here, so we will first see what’s going on. We also look at protective sun mats but we don’t immediately see the right size. We also don’t succeed with a hoodie for Dick so an hour later we are outside empty-handed, unfortunately. We drive to Varsseveld where we park next to the sports hall at 3 pm.
Diner in restaurant Enzovoort – Varsseveld
While Dick enjoys watching the Olympic games, I walk into town. Not only to reserve a table for tonight at our favorite restaurant Enzovoort, but also to take away empty bottles and buy coffee. When I get home, I also enjoy watching sports. At 6.30 pm we walk to Enzovoort and enjoy another good meal with a glass of wine. A good end to a nice holiday trip through Germany. Because there is a paper on our parking lot that this spot may no longer be occupied from now on, due to the preparations for the folk festivals, we park our camper in a different spot on the square in the evening.
That turns out to be wise, because when we get out of bed at 7.30 on Monday morning, August 5th , there are already workers around us setting up party tents. Because I cannot get a haircut here early this morning, we drive away after breakfast. The roads are quiet, it’s holiday time in the Netherlands. At 10.30 am we are home and we have plenty of time to unload everything. At 6 p.m. the entire camper is clean again, even the roof has been cleaned and both Dick and I feel exhausted.
Back to the storage
This may also have something to do with the high temperatures. The motorhome is burning in the full sun, it’s 84 degrees outside, it feels like 97 degrees inside. Fortunately, the camper will stay next to the house tonight so that I can make our beds after dinner and load some last bits of stuff. Dick will have to bring the rest when he leave again at the end of August.
When Dick brings the motorhome back to the storage tuesdaymorning I start washing. When everything is dry and ironed, I store everything that needs to come with Dick in bags.
We drove 2278 miles, cycled 137 miles and walked only 56 miles.
We had a great time, enjoyed the many sun and blue skies. The temperatures were high for Dutch people.
We discovered beautiful places, moved every day and eventually visited 9 countries.