Monday August 28^th  until  September 8^th  2017

Wyoming, Utah and Colorado

 

Sunday evening we have another nice Ranger talk about the security aspects of Yellowstone. Most accidents in the park are not caused by wild animals or the icy cold water currents and big waterfalls but by the thermal spots, the water of pools and geysers is always above the boiling point. That is the reason that dogs are not allowed on the boardwalks in Yellowstone; sometimes they want to jump into the water (and his boss jumps after), resulting in severe burns or worse. After saying goodbye to our Irish neighbor Vincent and the camphost (of course we keep talking), we finally hit the road on Monday morning august 28^th.

 

 

It is very busy on our way South and Yes, three times we cross the Continental Divide. In a short time we arrive at Tetons National Park where it’s even busier.

It looks like Switzerland, a huge lake with high mountain peaks. Even though there is sufficient space on the campground at Colter Bay it’s to busy and we don’t find it pleasant up here. The campground further South, at Signal Mountain, is full and has very small places so we decide, after one last look at the high mountains of the Grand Tetons, to leave this National Park.

 

In Jackson, Wyoming we stop to ask about campsites in the National Forests and so around half past 3 we find a beautiful large spot at the Snake River. Quiet and secluded. A lot better than those hectic and less attractive Teton NP campgrounds. It’s so quiet that the following morning we don’t wake up before 8 am and after a quick breakfast, we drive through a beautiful valley and once again we are hit by a stone, so in Alpine, Wyoming, while I get some food, Dick can show his window repair skills.

 

 

 

In Afton it starts to rain. It’s a pity because in this town is a huge Arch of Antlers but I really don’t want to get out so we wash our clothes and bedding and at a used bookstore I find another book from the series “Wagons West” by Dana Fuller Ross.

We drive to another National Forest, first we need to climb a steep mountain road and then our brakes are tested at a steep descent. But as a reward we find a small campground, almost empty and we enjoy the peace around us.

 

It’s warm, 83 degrees, the clouds are gone and we have blue sky so we can sit outside. As the sun disappears behind the ridge it cools down and at 7 pm it’s better to sit inside although at night fall we enjoy a starlit sky. The next day our destination is Geneva.

When we put it in our Hakuna (Garmin), it will bring us over the ocean so quickly we add the State of Idaho what brings us more in the right direction. In Montpellier, located a little further, is the National Oregon Trail center (the subject in my series Wagons West so of course we stop here) but inside are too many paintings showing life during the trail.

 

 

So after looking at them we continue driving along Bear Valley until we arrive in the City of Paris. There is not a greater contrast with its French sister city Paris. In this idyllic village of farmers, cowboys on horseback (Incredible we see this) rounding up the cows in the streets. There is only one large building, a Mormon Church. As we are on our way to Salt Lake City, where we want to visit the Mormon Temple Square, this is a nice stop.

 

 

Spencer and his wife Laurie (who plays the organ) give us a great tour. The Church is simple but beautifully made and reminds us of the Protestant churches in the Netherlands. However, the organ is placed in the front of the Church in contrast to the Dutch churches. Spencer tells us a lot about the Mormon faith and its founder, Joseph Smith, and we have to take the “Book of the Mormons”. 1½ Hours later we continue our travels until we arrive in Logan, Utah where we spend the night in the parking lot of Walmart. Luckily, there are some clouds so the heat disappears. Thursday August 31, it is very cloudy but still 62 degrees. We have Wifi so Dick can publish but unfortunately I don’t manage to skype with Auntie Ank. At half past 9 we leave Logan.

After all those rural areas we must get used to the heavy city traffic.

 

In Syracuse, Utah is a dam connecting the Mainland with Antelope Island. Fortunately there is a campground in this State Park so moments later we drive through the salt Plains and later along water to the island. When we find the campground we see that the only place with a tree is our spot (we don’t want that) so we drive the 7,3 mile long dam back to the park entrance.

 

 

 

Despite the fact that there are already many reserved places we can have another place, more beautiful. We take possession of this new spot, enjoy the view and drink coffee before exploring the island.

It is noon and already warm, the temperature increases to 93 degrees. There are a lot of geocaches here so, while riding around the island, every now and then we pick up a cache. Ofcourse we see some herds of Buffalloo’s on the gentle slopes of the island. In 1893 they are introduced on Antelope Island and there are also herds of Pronghorns running along the shore. The island, now a State Park, has beautiful rolling hills but because of the drought, the current heat and the bare slopes it looks wild and desolate.

 

 

At almost the southern part of the island we see the vague contours of Salt Lake City, at the other side of the Great Salt Lake, fed by four rivers without any outputs. Here is a ranch, the Garr Ranch, where we may walk around and get an impression of life on a ranch in a place so far away from everything. The ranch was founded in 1848 by the Mormons.

The herds of the Church could be herded here and the profits of the ranch made it possible for other Mormons to emigrate to the west. We love this island so not before dawn we are back at the campground.

It’s still hot and we enjoy the views over the great Salt Lake during the evening. Because of the temperature,  it’s still 90 degrees, we will not walk to the shore (more than 1,5 mile), so we still don’t know or the salinity of the Lake is so high that you float. Oh well to find out we have a reason to return. We don’t go to bed before eleven pm. Then a small breeze is rising so it’s more pleasant to be inside. When we wake up Friday  at 6 am the sky is blue and the thermometer shows 70 degrees.

 

Next to our camper is a herd of Buffalo’s and of course we have to take pictures. However, our close presence and the clicking of our cameras, makes them nervous and quickly they leave. They really can run fast. After some shopping in Syracuse, Utah we drive to downtown Salt Lake City. We have to go around to find a parking spot not far from the Temple Square but only allowed for two hours. But it’s a short walk to this center of the Mormon faith.

 

 

The Temple of the Mormons is not accessible (perhaps for the many bridal couples who walk around here) but the Tabernacle next door is allowed. This one looks the same as the Church in the City of Paris and again we enjoy the organ playing. Unfortunately, the famous Tabernacle Choir sings only on Sunday and then we already left. After walking up the stairway in the Visitor Center and admiring the statue of Christ there, we walk back to our RV and leave town. It’s too hot to stay here. We notice that when we climb a long, long, steep slope. For the first time during our travels a red light is on, our engine is overheated.

We are obviously not the only ones with an overheated engine on this hill because if we stand still on the shoulder to let the engine cool down we see other cars in front and behind us, also waiting. Fortunately, the engine cools down quickly and we may continue the climb. We keep a close eye on the temperature now. The hinterland of Salt Lake City is very wild and we climb one after another mountain pass.

 

 

On one of this passes is a campground (at an altitude of 9442 feet) but it’s not tempting so we drive further and moments later we find in Ashley National Forest, Aspen Campground, a nice spot where we enjoy the shade of the tall pine trees (Yes, it’s really hot). Around us no place is taken so it’s incredibly quiet and you only hear Squirrels running around. At 8 pm it cools down to 68 degrees.

 

 

 

Saturday morning, september 2nd, we leave early. The land around us is yellow and dry except in the town of Hanna where around 80 nozzles irrigate the fields, nice to see.

While driving over roads without any traffic, we suddenly hear a huge bang and yeah, the middle of our windshield is damaged. Caused by what, a stone, a bullet? In Duchesne, Utah, it’s not possible to repair but In Roosevelt 10,5 mile away, it is. The shop owner inspects the windshield, then he fills the hole with an acrylic substance. We are not allowed to pay for it because, given the size of the damage, he cannot guarantee there will be no more cracking. Unfortunately, now we have a visible star in our windshield, let’s hope it will not tear apart.

 

 

In the next town, Vernal, we enjoy a Sonic milkshake (with pineapple chunks) and then we drive through a barren and dry landscape to Dinosaur National Monument. It is a long weekend because Monday is Labor Day so probably there’s no place on the campground but we are lucky. At 2pm we even have a choice between places.

 

It’s 95 degrees so the rest of the day we do nothing, lazily we sit in the shade of our motorhome and read. The next morning we drive to the Visitor Center and from there with a shuttle to the Fossil Bone Quarry, discovered in 1909.

The Morrison formation in which this rock layer is located houses many fossils of Dinosaurs from the Jurassic period and we see really huge bones in the rocks.

 

 

We have to touch the bones of an Allosaurus, a fiery predator. Special if you consider that these Dinosaurs wandered here 150 million years ago.

For a long time we stay at the quarry, feel bones and listen to the story of a Ranger about the different types of Dinosaurs before we leave, look at rock art and find out that we cannot get to Box Canyon because of the bad road.

 

 

So around 1 pm we are back on the campground. Alongside is the Green River. Unfortunately, swimming in this fast-flowing water is not possible but people built dams of large stones so there you can stay in the water. For three hours I am in this part of the river, reading, until it cools down a bit to 78 degrees and we have dinner. Now we have structurally a propane failure and I’m glad we bought an American propane tank so we can use this outside of the motorhome. Monday september 4^th at 10:00 am we arrive in Colorado. Here is another part of Dinosaur National Monument consisting of deep gorges but actually we don’t have the time to look around so we drive further South.

The landscape is very desolate, there is nothing but flattened mountains (mesa’s). Every now and then we see pumps for Natural Gas. A lifeless landscape. No wonder the former inhabitants said that this landscape was forgotten by God.

 

At 1 pm we arrive in Colorado National Monument. There is plenty of place on the campground. Of course, as always if we have a choice, it takes almost an hour before we take that one spot with beautiful views and Sun and shadow and then it’s up to Dick to level the camper. Unfortunately we do not have levelers on our motorhome. I was too sparing to buy them so we have to drive many, many times back and forward before our camper is leveled out according to Dick.

 

 

I mind my own business because I don’t see how the camper has to stand and I only place crams where Dick indicates them. After enjoying our usual coffee we walk to the Visitor Center and look at the movie about this monument, discovered in 1907 by John Otto. He was so impressed by the wild, desolate and beautifully colored canyons here that he continued to strive to preserve this piece of land and thanks to his efforts, in 1911 it got the status of National Monument and for $1 a month John Otto became caretaker of the Park, with pleasure, until 1927.

 

After we have all the information we need and of course a stamp for our National Park Passport, we hike along the rim of one of the canyons. It is awesome and enchanting. Red smooth cliff walls on all sides and massive rock formations rise vertically.

The trail goes along the cliff edge and in some places it is really scary to walk past it and looking down. We enjoy the walk and even more the trip the next day, leading us along the edges of all the canyons in the park.

 

 

The road, Rimrock drive, is built in the 1930’s during the great depression and offers on different spots an magnificent view of the canyons. One rock formation even looks like an Egyptian Mummy.

And we’re lucky because on one of the steep red rock formations along the way, we see three Bighorn Sheep walking. They really defy gravity because they act like hopping around on flat terrain. We can’t get enough to walk to the edges of the canyons and see new smooth red rock formations over and over again.

 

 

Late in the afternoon we have seen almost all and after some shopping in Grand Junction and visiting a laundromat in Fruita, Utah, we drive back to the campground in the National Monument where again we find another nice spot for the night.

 

 

After a futile attempt to skype Auntie Ank on Wednesday september 6^th (her computer is offline) and a phonecall from Dick to our RV dealer asking what can be done to our ongoing propane failure, we drive through Colorado National Monument to the South. It is cloudy now so the colors are less beautiful but nevertheless, this way over the rim of the Canyon, is more enjoyable. At 10 am we leave the monument and drive again through the desolate landscape, the great nothing, to the South.

This is really an area for a prison and yeah, just before Delta we see large signs along the way that we’re not allowed to stop for hitch hikers because of a Correctional Facility. At noon we arrive at Black Canyon of the Gunnison, a National Park we never visited. After taking a spot on the campground we go to the Visitor Center.

 

This National Park consists of a deep canyon with towering vertical, jagged rocks. The canyon is so deep and narrow that only little sunlight can get to the bottom so that’s why they call it “the Black Canyon”. In 1873 part of this canyon was discovered and it proved to be inaccessible for the most part. The drive over the rim is unimaginable. This canyon is one of the most beautiful we have ever seen.

 

From the many viewpoints at the end of small trails we catch a glimpse of the raging Gunnison River deep below us. It is particularly impressive and certainly more impressive than the Grand Canyon. What a depth, some paths are pretty scary to walk over. Almost at nightfall we are back on our, now fully occupied, campground and after some toasts with cheese, our dinner, we walk to the amphitheater to attend the evening program.

 

Ranger Molly tells us all about the nightlife in this park and of course the star consolations. She is doing a great job and very satisfied, we walk back at night, lit by a bright red moon (caused by the smoke of the many fires in Montana). It is significantly cooler when we wake up on Thursday. Yesterday we put away our duvet comforter but last night it was so cold that we had to take an extra blanket.

 

 

After a steep descent from the National Park, we smell our brakes, we arrive in Montrose and moments later we are in Ouray, Colorado, also called “Switzerland of America”. Our friend Susan told us that they had the last available spot on the KOA campground, so we drive straight to a Forest camp above Ouray. It’s a steep drive up and on the campground the paths narrowing but we find a beautiful large spot.

 

 

It is a handicapped one  but the camphost says it’s no problem to stay there. We call Mike and Susan and if they don’t respond, Dick get the bikes so we can ride to their campground. While Dick is cleaning the bikes (they are so dirty) Mike, Susan and Penny (their Beagle puppy) arrive at our place. Before leaving for their campspot (it is lunch time) we get us a delicious burger in the town of Ouray.

 

 

 

Then, with filled stomachs, we drive a jeep trail with Mike ’s Jeep Rubicon, the Yankee Boy trail. Under overhanging rocks and through streambeds the jeep crawls higher and higher until the trail ends.

 

We are arrived at 12.250 feet and around us high alpine conditions prevail. It’s awesome here. Despite the fact that the sun is not shining, there are dark clouds and every now and then some snowflakes fall, we have a magnificent view of the mountain world towering above us. It is much cooler at this altitude and wearing a hoodie is more pleasant than a T-shirt.

 

 

 

After a lot of pictures the Jeep crawls back down over loose boulders. It is incredible how gently this Rubicon concurs the everywhere scattered boulders. Mike masters the Jeep completely, driving this jeep is in his genes.

Mike says, Dick also has to drive the Jeep, because after all, Dick is also qualified for this jeep because of his driving license for large trucks over 50 tons and Dick doesn’t disappoint us because he brings us safely back to the KOA campground where we enjoy the Birthday cake, Susan baked for me.

The cake is not only delicious but I also feel (again) a birthday girl, when I blow out the candle in the middle of the cake. In the evening Mike, Susan and of course Beagle Penny, drive us back to our campground. On Friday Mike and Susan arrive around half past 9 at our place.

A new day awaits us in this “Jeep Capital of the World”. However, before driving the trail to the Red Mountains we first visit Ridgeway. There is a small place where a nice guy produce (already for 41 years) the Grammy’s (from the Grammy awards).

 

Although the shop is closed, we may look inside. After some pictures of the ranch of Ralph Lauren nearby, we drive part of the Million Dollar Highway until the trail to the Red mountain. A steep stony path leads us up through the Woods. We rise very fast and look at the enormously tall Spruce Tree’s at this altitude.

Finally we arrive above the tree line and a beautiful colored landscape is waiting for us. Bare slopes rise up, gray and red colored. It is an almost unearthly landscape, magnificent.

 

 

The camera keeps going and going. At the highest point 12325 feet, we walk around and enjoy the view to both sides. It’s been pretty quiet on this trail but that changes when we drive down.

 

One after another jeep and ATV meets us on places where sometimes only a few inches remain between the Jeep and the steep precipice. It is really spectacular to drive here but I am glad I’m not behind the steering wheel. We slowly crawl down, drive past gold mines and finally arrive in Silverton, CO where we walk around and of course look in shops and buy a t-shirt. We also find a shop for nuts and bolts because along the way the Jeep lost some bolts. Fortunately Dick could bind the components together with the string of his Hoodie but that is only a temporary solution.

 

 

When we are back in Ouray we find out that neither Susan nor I, took food from the freezer so again we buy us a burger in Ouray. This one is tastier than yesterday. After a great evening together and lots of talking about the great days in the mountains, Mike drives us back again to our campground high above Ouray.

Washington, Oregon, Idaho and Wyoming

August 8 until August 27, 2017

On Friday August 8, before leaving Puyallup, I first have to pick some blackberries. There are so many of them that I only take the big fat ones and within 40 minutes I fill up my whole bowl. The next few days we have plenty of healthy fruit to eat. Unfortunately I navigate the wrong way, it goes through Mount Rainier National Park but we are not within reach of the visitor center so we cannot have our passport stamped. But from a viewpoint we see Mount Rainier in a steel blue sky.

 

The road we want to take is closed, due to fires, so we take another beautiful road that leads us along fast flowing rivers through the mountains. Finally we arrive in a much wider Valley with plenty of fruit trees and then we arrive at the Columbia River.

 

 

A beautiful park next to this river is already full but on the other side of the River, over the bridge, in Umatilla, in the State of Oregon, is a place available on the campground. It’s dry camp without any facilities and therefore cheaper but it’s a pleasant spot. We have a beautiful sunset over the Columbia River and enjoy the outdoor seating, until late in the evening it remains 80 degrees. On Saturday morning we look for a laundromat while Dick investigate our propane valve. Again it’s not working right.

We don’t understand what is going wrong with our propane.  When I finish laundry Dick has replaced the valve of our propane tank, Yeah again, and everything works properly.

After buying some food we drive further South towards Weiser, Idaho where we want to see the Eclipse. It is very warm, so early afternoon we stop at Emigrants Springs state park, a nice place. It’s cool amid the high Spruce trees and we enjoy it here. The glass of one of our car lights is broken (by a stone) so while I’m writing for the website Dick provisionally repairs the light.

It needs another glass but it will not available here so we have to take one from the Netherlands. As Dick is working with duct tape, indispensable if you travel with a motorhome, he immediately tapes our rooflight that has been frayed by a tree branch. Again we can stay outside until late in the evening. Ofcourse it’s not allowed to have a fire with this drought.  Many people in this State Park want to see the Eclipse and everyone ask for the best place to look at it. Especially the people who made no reservations will stay here as more southern in Oregon it will be very busy. Oh well, we’ll see where we can stay. In the worst case we sleep at Walmart and drive on Monday morning to a country road to see the Eclipse.

On Sunday, August 20 we leave in time before everyone hits the road to their “Eclipse destination”. We leave the I 84 at Huntington, Idaho and take a byway to Weiser. Along this road we see many signs “Eclipse parking”.

A big property just before Huntington looks promising and I ask some people what they pay. The answer is “100 dollar”. A lot of money for a place on a farmfield without anything so we drive further on along the Snake river.

 

 

 

At some point we see some RV’s along the River. When we ask ourselves or it’s allowed to stay here some guys of Bureau Land Management tell us that this is Federal country and it allowed to stay. The sheriff, driving by, confirms this so we don’t hesitate and put our RV on this great spot. There is a lot of space and our neighbors Katrina and David tell us that we are exactly in the center of the Eclipse. On his I pad David shows us what will be the path of the Sun tomorrow. Although we will miss the Eclipse party, 11 miles away in Weiser, we are really lucky with this beautiful spot, our “Eclipse Camp”. It is not very busy here and we don’t have to pay. The rest of the afternoon we socialize with our neighbors, sitting outside in the warm sunshine, the temperature is 80 degrees, I get a sunburn and we read our books. I look at the River because I like to swim but the first few meters along the side look like a mushy, green algae mass and I just helped another neighbor throwing a dozen dead, stinky and half filleted catfish back in the river, so swimming between them is not wise.

But we enjoy the pleasant company of the other “Eclipse hunters” here. Until late in the evening it remains hot and we are happy, when we go to bed at ten o’clock, that a breeze blows so that it cools down. We’re not quite sure of the correct time. Here on the border of Oregon and Idaho our GPS says it’s mountain time, an hour later than Oregon’s Standard Pacific Time. Oh well, tomorrow time is not important because we’ll see it when the Sun is leaving us. However, we worry because end of the afternoon the sky gets cloudy and the Sun disappears. We hope that is not the case tomorrow. Fortunately, later on in the evening the clouds drift away and  when I wake up at night I see a beautiful sky filled with stars.

 

Monday August 21 everyone around us wake up early. There is a tense “wait-and-see” atmosphere. Everyone is chatting with each other. The clouds are all gone and the sky is steel blue. The camper of our neighbors David and Katrina turns out to be a midpoint. This is also because their friends Jules and Pam project the Sun on a screen with binoculairs. Very useful because now you can see right away when a piece of the Sun disappears. Our group is growing and we have a lot of fun together while waiting.  Josh and Megan arrives. Josh is a professional photographer and we talk about their wedding in October. Hopefully he will give us some of the pictures he takes because my camera is unable to make photos of the Sun. Despite the fact that I put my Special Solar Eclipse glasses in front of the lens, the Sun is so bright (even partially) that I only see a fiery sphere. Time flies but at 10.12 am the first bite is out and the Sun disappears  further. Everyone put on their Eclipse glasses to see and enjoy this magical moment.

It’s a little cooler and even the light decreases and then from 11.24 until 11.26 am the entire Sun is covered, it’s dark, the temperature dropped with 20 degrees and we see a white Halo around the moon. A magical moment, it’s a life changer and fantastic to see. You feel emotional and excited at the same time. Is that because our life depends on the Sun? I don’t know but as the Sun reappears, light is coming and we slowly warm up, we all know that this moment will stay with us forever.

 

Now I know that if there is a total eclipse somewhere and it’s possible to go, I go. Slowly the Sun takes his place again and at 12. 46 pm the full sun is back.  We talk with each other, exchange addresses, promise to meet again (in the USA or in Holland) and make pictures. Deborah gives me a great Eclipse shirt, it will remember me at this magical moment. An hour later we leave and drive East. During this ride we talk about the Eclipse, it was very impressive. We drive in the right direction because almost everyone drives west. It’s very, very busy on the other side and cars crawling like snakes over the mountain road. Just after Banks, in Idaho, we stop at a National Forest campground. Not a bad choice because moments later all available places are filled up with people turning around to avoid this traffic jam.

This campground also has a Hotspring, a small pool next to the river but it’s 80 degrees outside, no temperature for staying in a hot spring and when it cools down at 10 pm we do not want to go there anymore. Tuesday, August 22 we find out that we follow the path of the Eclipse. That’s why everywhere it’s very busy with people who probably took a holiday around this event. After a nice drive in a beautiful mountain valley we arrive in the Sawtooth mountains, the village of Stanley, Idaho where we have to refuel. We’re lucky because almost every station run out of gas and diesel because there were far too many people here. Now gas and diesel is still more expensive than normal ($ 1,-) but yesterday the diesel was even more expensive or not for sale.

You still see the Eclipse campsites and rows of mobile toilets in the farmlands and it turns out that 100 dollars a night for a spot on a field was the normal price. There are huge crowds at Craters of the Moon National Monument so we can forget to visit this place. We drive a couple of miles inside but cars are double parked on each empty spot. Even in front of the Visitor Center is no place to park, so we leave Craters of the moon and find in Leslie a drycamp spot. All other sites on the campground are occupied. But we manage without any electricity or water so that’s no problem. After a warm evening, it’s getting cooler at 10 pm but we wake up on Wednesday august 23 with goose bumps. It’s only 48 degrees and very cloudy. It’s good we already saw the eclipse because now you should not see it. A good day for traveling so we drive to Rexburg, Idaho, over endless barren Plains with a National Laboratory. It’s not clear what they examine or test here however. In Rexburg we take a delicious Sonic milkshake and then search for a laundromat, yes, again. Despite the fact that we prepare our shirts with stain remover they are never really clean. It is no wonder that many Americans empty half a bottle of bleach with every load of laundry.

 

After our wardrobe is full and the laundry bag empty we drive to Walmart. Everywhere are signs with “no overnight parking”, but when we ask inside it’s allowed, these signs were only for the Eclipse. Fortunately on Thursday morning, all the clouds are disappeared and the sun shines again.

On time we leave Rexburg because we hope to find a place in Yellowstone National park. We drive through a volcanic landscape and next to us we see the mighty mountains of the Grand Tetons. When we arrive at the west gate of Yellowstone we have to wait because there are many cars in front of us but at 11 am we may enter Yellowstone. Unfortunately, we get stuck in a huge traffic jam and on a snail’s pace we crawl forward. It’s likely that this traffic jam will last till the crossing at Madison, 10 mile away, so at the first pull out we turn around and drive back to West Yellowstone.

There it’s also very busy and the first three campgrounds are full. Eventually we find a place on a campground, pay, put our RV in the place and drink a coffee before walking around.

It is only 60 degrees, warm enough to walk around with shorts and t shirt. Dick is willing to come with me in the stores and he even buy a nice printed t-shirt. Ofcourse we also search some geocaches and are back at the camper at 5 pm. Just in time because it starts raining and the sky is colored by lightning. We have had a wonderful afternoon and walked a lot. Friday morning August 25 our alarm clock wakes us at 5.30 am. At dawn we want to drive into Yellowstone to get a place on one of the campgrounds in the park. It means that immediately after showering we leave and arrive at the gate at 6 am.

Apparently not early enough because when we arrive at Norris campground, before seven am, already 8 cars are waiting for a spot.

We don’t think we get a place here so after giving space to a buffalo, who want to cross our way, we continue to drive to Mammoth Springs, in the North part of Yellowstone. Until now we always managed to get a place here. Yesterday we heard in the Visitor Center that this campsite filled up at 9.12 am, so it was good that we turned around. At 7.50 am we are 5th in line and within half an hour we have a gorgeous spot on Mammoth s campground, so finally we can have breakfast, in the Sun.

 

From this campground there is a nice hike to Mammoth springs, so after half an hour we put on our hiking boots and walk over a steep mountain path to Mammoth. It is very busy and it seems like everyone has taken an Eclipse holiday and stuck in Yellowstone. Ofcourse we go to the Visitor Center to stamp our Park passport. By now we have two passport books. Our first one was too small because of the quantity of stickers and cards, (it’s not only stamps that I paste in our passport). After looking around at the exhibition we walk to the Hot Springs. No springs where you can take a bath but terraced formations made by calcium carbonate, amazing fragile formations, some beautiful colored.

Despite the many people on the boardwalks you can relax here. Ofcourse we admire the herd of Elks who are domiciled here before we buy an ice cream in the General Store. It is very good ice and we give it a place in the top 10. However, our small ice cream is enormous and consist, at least, of 4 large scoops, it is more than a lunch. This morning it was only 48 degrees but meanwhile the temperature raised to 88 degrees. Unfortunately not for long because when we are back at the campground and I take my computer outside to write for the website, black clouds come in and within ten minutes you hear the thunder and it starts to rain. Fortunately, at 4 pm it’s over but the temperature dropped to 59 degrees, so in the evening we have long pants and a jacket when we walk to the ranger program.

There we hear all about the water in Yellowstone, where it flows (the Continental Divide  runs through the park), hear about the fish in the park and what is done to preserve the native ones. Saturday morning August 26, we are early because I’d like to skype with my Auntie Ank . This campground is only 6 mile from Gardiner, Montana so we have excellent service at our MiFi.  After talking a lot together for more than an hour we drive around in the park. We have to take the RV because of the vast distances in Yellowstone. Taking our bicycle is impossible. First we drive to the East side of Yellowstone, look at the magnificent waterfalls, and then we drive slowly South. We also want to walk in Norris geyser basin, but that is not possible.

There are already too many people there so the road is closed and we continue to the Old Faithful. What could be more fun than visit an old reliable geyser on your birthday (Yes, I am really old now, 65 years!). There are huge crowds here too but fortunately we find a parking spot and a place in the front row and after 10 minutes waiting we may admire the “Old Faithful”. We have seen this several times before but the force of nature that can spray water so high up impresses always. As the weather is beautiful, blue sky and 88 degrees, we walk along various other geysers and springs.

We’re lucky, at first it’s very busy on the boardwalk but if the word goes, most of the people ran the other way to see the “Beehive” geyser. We continue our way (it will stay there and burst without us). Now almost everybody is gone, we enjoy the colored Pools and springs and other geysers in solitude. The earth is rumbling, growling and bubbling around us.

 

 

The end of our walk is the morning glory pool, I think it’s the most beautiful with its green and yellow colors. Although the Ranger tells us that many years ago the color was more beautiful with a skyblue center. Because many people threw coins in the pool (which is strictly prohibited) the color of the water changed and the bright blue has given way to the green and yellow colors nowadays.

End of the afternoon, after a walk of 7 miles we are back at the RV, drink almost a gallon of water (of course I forgot to bring water with us on our walk) and we drive back to the northern part of the park. We cannot visit the “great prismatic pool” because the crowds are so large that in miles there is no parking space available. After a birthday meal of leftovers (minced beef with potato salad) we walk again to the amphitheater where another ranger tells us everything about bears, how they live, how you see the difference between a Black and a Grizzly bear and what you should do in the unlikely event that you encounter a bear. Bells don’t really help, a bear gets used to that sound and does not hear it anymore, but loud talking and singing is better and if you really meet an aggressive bear then the only effective way is using Bearspray. This kind of programs on the campgrounds in National Parks are really fun and educational.

On Sunday, it is much quieter on the campground, Holiday season is almost over. As we have only seen 2 buffalo’s we drive today to the Lamar Valley, a road heading towards the northeast entrance to Yellowstone. We want to see wildlife. When we enter the Lamar valley we directly caught up in a huge herd of buffalo’s, taken possession of the road in front of us. Instantly this creates a huge traffic jam because the buffalo’s do not want to go aside and on both sides of the road are cars blocking the way for the herd of a hundred buffalo’s.

 

Eventually a Ranger has to come in to clear the road and give way to the buffalo’s so they can walk over a long bridge until they finally arrive at the other side of the Yellowstone River and climb into the hills. It is great to be surrounded by these massive beasts, see them walking before and next to your car, hear them growling and blowing.

I cannot get enough of them and my camera makes overtime. It is not the only herd we encounter because in Lamar Valley live thousands of them and every few miles we meet them, right next to or on the road, so photo opportunities enough. We even see a herd of pronghorns.

Unfortunately not my beloved Grizzly’s but today with a temperature of 86 degrees it’s too hot for Bears.

 

Around noon we are in Cooke city, an old mining town at 7540 feet surrounded by high mountains. In 1882 a Stampede was here when the mare went on that gold was found in the hills. Three years ago we finished our drive over the Beartooth Highway, one of the most beautiful mountain roads in the world, in Cooke city but then it was cold. We walk around in this small town, drink delicious cappuccino and look around in the shops before we drive back to the campground. There is still sun and we can sit outside to write and read and talk before having dinner.

 

The Eclips pictures are not ours but from Josh and David, joining us at the Eclipse Camp.

In Canada and then back in the USA ,  August 5 until August 17, 2017

After a cool start of the day, it’s only 50 degrees, it warms up. We drive to Jasper in our camper since the road is very busy with speeding cars so it’s not nice to do this with our bike. We walk around town, drinking delicious coffee in the laundry (recommended by my sister Hannah) and look around in the shops or there is something nice. Dick does not like this because we don’t need anything but I love to look or there is anything on sale. But without purchases we drive back to the overflow campground in the afternoon. Dick start cleaning the camper so I fill up the buckets with water from a nearby watering hole. It’s necessary because the camper is filthy.

But with the splendid weather it is not bad to be outside. Our beer at 5 pm is well deserved because the camper looks beautiful.

Sunday, August 6, the sky is steel blue, a great day to drive the Icefield Parkway. The mountain scenery is majestic and we go South. We soon discover that driving the reverse direction is better because now we constantly look into the Sun and the mountains are hazy. Regularly we stop to take pictures of the surrounding glaciers and lakes. Unfortunately an endless stream of cars comes to meet us and the parking spaces near attractions are overcrowded. Regularly we have to continue our travels because we really cannot park our RV. Ofcourse the campground in Lake Louise is full. There is no place at all in Lake Louise Village, so we drive to the overflow campground, about 5 miles away.

There is enough place for campers to stay. There are long queues waiting for the shuttle to get to Lake Louise, so we decide not to go to the lake (you can walk there over the heads of people). Around three o’clock, the line dries up so we get the shuttle to the Village, where Dick can publish on our website and around 5 pm we drive back to the overflow parking before the mass return from the lake. This is the busiest weekend of the year, at 8 am there was already no parking place available at Lake Louise.

But we have a good place on the overflow parking and watch the returning stream of people. Mirjam and Wim from Holland come to visit us, they want to learn everything about transferring a camper and when Alexander (also from Holland) ask or his wife Ilena may take a shower in our RV (of course it’s possible) we have a pleasant evening together.

Around half past 11 we realize what time it is and say goodbye to each other. Monday morning, August 7, we also say goodbye to our neighbors John and La from Oregon (we really need to drop by) and drive to Banff. Again, there is no place available on Tunnel Mountain campground, we are too early, but if we return around 11 am there will be something available.

So we go down to the city center where we walk around. However, I am restless so after an hour we go back to the campground. There is vacancy now and after taking our RV spot we board the free shuttle to Banff and walk around again, now with the certainty that we have a place for the night. Unfortunately, late in the afternoon the sun disappears and a chilly breeze blow so after returning at the campground it’s not pleasant to sit outside.

Tuesday it’s cloudy but there is no wind so it feels warmer. Before leaving Banff we bring our empty cans to the bottle depot and receive $ 3,70. Wooooow!

On our way to Radium Hot Springs we face the forest fires that terrorize this part of Canada for some weeks. Thick smoke clouds are around us and inside  the RV it smells like we make a wood fire. The mountains around us are almost not visible and you realize how bad the people here are affected by the fires.

At the Visitor Center in Radium they tell us that the road going South is open so we take that one and at three pm we stop in Fort Steele, to late to visit this Historic Fort, but it’s nice on the nearby campground.

 

We walk around searching for geocaches and enjoy the sun, covered by smoke. It is warm (78 degrees) but at 8 pm the wind starts blowing and thunderclaps coloring the sky, unfortunately no rain, with the many fires it would be welcome here. On Wednesday August 9^th  the sun still suffer from the smoke, it’s veiled and the sky looks like milk. We still smell the fires. Around half past 10 we are at the border crossing of Roosville. Only after extensively explained where and when our car has arrived and when it leaves the USA, we may enter the country. No wonder there are fires, the past 5 weeks there was no drop of rain. The fields are yellow and nature looks very dry.

When we arrive at Glacier National Park we stuck in a traffic jam. It is very busy and it’s not amazing that all the campgrounds are full. Yet, we look at a few and to our surprise, at the last campground, Fishcreek, we find out that there is a place for one night available, a great place where we can sit outside amid the trees, very pleasant with a temperature of 80 degrees. Late afternoon Dick make us pancakes with bacon, ofcourse outside the RV because the smell is not really pleasant inside the camper.

Around half past eight we walk to the Amphitheater. The topic “Mountains” is made for me because from an early age I love the mountains and as John Muir comes on the screen: “The mountains are calling so I have to go ” (I bought a T-shirt in Seward, AK with this text). I am satisfied and by the way, the lecture is also fascinating.

It’s already dark when we leave the amphitheater, so we need our lights while climbing the mountain to the campground. After some chitchat with our neighbors we go to bed. Thursday August 10^th our alarm clock wakes us up before 6 am and after a shower we leave. Yesterday I heard that the campgrounds fill up at 8 am so early in the morning we have to find another spot. At Apgar campground there is vacancy and a beautiful spot. Once I filled out the “self registration” form and put money in it, we walk to the Visitor Center where the shuttles leave. The big crowds this year in Glacier (already more than one million visitors) make that there is hardly any parking place at Logan Pass so many people take this shuttle. The result is a long line waiting at half past seven. After one hour waiting in line we aboard the bus and moments later we drive the “Going to the Sun road”. Finally, after been here three times before, we can explore this park (as our RV is too long we cannot drive this way).

On Logan Pass we buy nice T-shirts, get a stamp in our National Park Passport and decide to walk to Hidden Lake. It is quite cold at this altitude because there is an icy breeze and I am glad that we have two wind jacket to wear. Despite the fact that a lot of people make the same walk (the way up is a traffic jam) nature is very beautiful and next to a herd of Bighorn Sheep, we also see a lot of Mountain Goat. These are my favorites, they look great with their pure white coat. I’m glad I’ve bought a stuffed one for the camper.

 

 

More clouds are coming in and the visibility is less when we arrive at Hidden Lake but on our way back the Sun re-appears. The shuttle back is more quiet as many people are still in the mountains. Back on the campground we sit outside and read. By nightfall storm is coming in and lightning strikes heaven, there is also substantial rain. Unfortunately the rain lasts only briefly, not sufficient to compensate the lack of rainfall for the past 5 weeks. The wind gusts break a big branch that falls on our roof. Days later, it turns out, that the edge of one of our skylights is destroyed by it. In October, we will have to bring a new skylight with us from the Netherlands. Friday morning, all the clouds are disappeared and the sun shines, it quickly becomes hot and when we arrive in Polson it’s 87 degrees.

 

After visiting the laundromat, no luxury if you did not wash your clothes for 9 days, and vacuum the camper, we drive to Odyssey Auto Glass. Just before arriving at Polson an overtaking car has thrown a stone which originated a huge star in the driver’s view. After looking at the place and size of the star Dick thinks it’s advisable to enlist the help of a specialized company. Greg does a superb job, you can hardly see the star and moments later we are at Tree Dogs Down, Bob’s shop and are warmly greeted by Bob and Brenda, his manager. Bob has customers for a ride with the “Happy Hippo” an amphibious vehicle from Viet Nam, we have to come. I love to go but Dick prefers to stay at the premises. We have a great ride (partly boat trip), it’s even more fun now I am part of the crew.

With loud music we drive through Polson, Bob tells a lot about this nice town, everybody waves at us and finally with enormous speed we dive into the Lake. With waterguns we moisten each other and we have fun. The children on the shore love it when Bob get them soaked with his fire hose, well it is 89 degrees. Soaking wet after a crazy and cozy ride we arrive back at the shop. After exchanging my wet clothes for dry and looking around in this fantastic store, where apart from the best down, great stuff is for sale, we drive with Bob to his ranch, 25 minutes farther.

Bob has a special VIP spot at his ranch, away from his own House and it is indeed a great spot with magnificent view of the Lake and the surrounding mountains. We have no luck, also here is a lot of smoke caused by fires so the mountains are hazy. When the RV is on his VIP spot we take Bob’s “New Used Mercedes 450”, a great sports car with a variety of gadgets. Sitting in the front seat you even can get massage. Bob and Dick have the greatest fun with all this fantastic car gadgets, this car is really a “Boys toy”. After having dinner together in a good restaurant, enjoying each other’s company and talking a lot, we drive back to Bob’s ranch. At Bob’s House Dick takes the Mercedes convertible 350, again a Boys toy, and drive through the fields to our RV on the VIP spot.  It’s under protest by me, because I think we can easily walk that distance, but the men decide that now everything has to be done by car. Bob says that (when we were here a few weeks ago) he did not teach Dick the use of an automatic transmission for nothing. That’s why, a little later, we stay on Bob’s property, on our VIP spot, with our own camper as well as this fantastic Mercedes convertible. Dick smiles broadly when he leaves the steering wheel.

On Saturdaymorning it’s already hot. You smell the smoke of forest fires. After having breakfast and enjoying this beautiful place we drive with Bob’s convertible Mercedes to the shop. Bob says that today we have to make a trip with his Mercedes convertible to the National Buffaloo Range. No protest! Bob explain us the way we have to go and we leave. Dick lowers the roof and I must say that this “ Boys Toy Car” is great, especially if the temperature is over 88 degrees. It is fantastic to feel the sun and the wind around you. Now I understand that famous people drive in sports cars like this, what a luxury, we enjoy!!!

 

It’s amazing that a friend insist that you take this car instead of his old truck. But Bob says that nobody here want to have such a convertible Mercedes so why shouldn’t we use this one. The heat doesn’t bother us in “our” open Mercedes and we see different herds of Buffaloo’s walking around in the reserve. We would never been able to drive around here with our camper regarding the very steep descents on the gravel roads. At the end of our tour we also see a herd of Pronghorn Antelopes so we are really privileged.

On our way back, we stop at the mission church in St. Ignatius with magnificent frescoes before driving back to Polson where after a ride of 140 miles we arrive at half past 4. Just in time to help the people who ride the Happy Hippo getting off, arranging the vehicle for a next ride and chitchatting together before we drive back to Bob’s ranch at 7 pm. It was a fantastic day and after cleaning Bob’s car (it became dirty because of the ride on dusty gravel roads) we enjoy the fantastic surroundings and paradisiacal rest on Bob’s ranch. Sunday August 13^th it’s (unfortunately) time to leave Polson.

 

As we talk too much and actually don’t want to say goodbye we do not leave before noon. The sky is much more cloudy and as soon as we left Polson it starts to rain. Fortunately no heavy rain but the dark clouds remain. When we arrive in Washington State the sky clears and at 6 pm in Spokane, the sun is shining. Once again we have a different time zone and again there is a 9 hour time difference with the Netherlands. At the first Walmart in Spokane, we are not allowed to stay overnight but the Walmart West of the city allows us to stay. After having dinner it’s dark (darkness already occurs at half past eight pm) so we stay inside and read. Monday August 14^th the temperature is chilly, only  52 degrees. As I have a coupon of REI I want to go there, so after breakfast we drive to REI in Spokane and moments later we walk around in this fantastic sporting shop. We do not leave empty hands because Dick find a nice zip off pants and I buy a discounted backpack. Now I can throw away my old worn out backpack with broken zippers.

Around 10 am we drive through a beautiful countryside with rolling hills, covered with yellow grass and corn, it’s looks dry. Steep descents alternate with long climbs and finally we arrive in a valley filled with fruit trees. In Wenatchee-WA, we stop and find a beautiful spot in the State park. It is three pm so we still enjoy to be outside the RV, the temperature has come to 86 degrees. The next day is also beautiful and in a magnificent mountain world we drive towards Seattle.

 

 

The city of Seattle has no campground so I’ve figured out that we should stay at Cabela’s, North of Seattle. When we arrive, however, it is not allowed to stay overnight and also at Walmart it’s not, so we drive south and try some campgrounds. They are all fully booked and of course we have no reservation. We drive around but everything is full and the parking lane along a busy road at the KOA campground in Kent, WA (we also have to pay $ 35,-for it) is not an option. Meanwhile it’s 4.30 pm and there is a huge traffic jam. We drive on the busiest road (167) of the USA. Fortunately the great view of Mt. Rainier compensate some.

Finally at 6 pm we arrive in Puyallup-WA, a town with a rail connection to Seattle. On the grounds of the Washington State Fair is place enough and there is electricity, water and sewer, so we don’t hesitate and place our camper here. We only searched for 5 hours to get a place for the night in this busy urban environment. Wednesday June 16^th at 8 am I want to pay at the State Fairgrounds office. It is not really easy because all the counters are closed but when I boldly open a door, I am in an office where I can pay. The lady here is quite surprised that we placed our RV on the fairgrounds while there is a telephone number that we had to call before spending the night there.

We are lucky, the State fair starts September 1^st, so now there is still place to stay without reservation. Back again at the camper we walk to the train station, just a 1,1 mile walk and after waiting for half an hour we have the train to Seattle. In 45 minutes, we are in the City, we could not do that with a car considering the many traffic jams. It is beautiful weather and we walk through the streets of Seattle. We cannot resist a geocache with a difficulty 5 and thanks to Dick’s technical understanding he is able to grab it quickly.

Farther is the “Gumwall”, an alley completely covered with gum. It looks cleaner than three years ago when you saw the bubblegum dripping down in long strings. There is bubblegum everywhere and it still remains a nasty place and not pleasant at all. While I make pictures Dick already walked to Pikes Market where I find him. My purpose here is: Lavender! But even though we walk around the market three times, the stall with Lavender and soft Lavender pillows is no longer there. Unfortunately, because after three years, my lavender pillow lost its smell and is in need of replacement. Now I have to find another solution, here I will not find it. Pikes market is also the perfect place to have food and drinks so we search for a foodstall and after finding one we enjoy our sandwiches looking at the lines of people waiting for special food and drinks such as clams or the first Starbucks. After a great lunch we walk along the shore to see the departing and arriving ships before turning back to King’s station. To reach that we have to cross a not so pleasant neighborhood with addicts loitering around. People warning us not to walk around here but take another street.

 

Late in the afternoon we are back in Puyallup and at the Fairgrounds RV Park, we can enjoy the last sunlight. It’s still warm but when, at half past eight pm, the sun disappears behind the edge of the forest, the temperature drops at least with 18 degrees and sitting inside is more pleasant. If we wake up on Thursday it is cloudy and not warm so we put on our long pants and a sweater and walk to the station at 7.30 am.

 

 

 

 

The train comes soon and when we arrive in Seattle we walk to the bus stop where we board bus line # 5, buy a ticket for a dollar and leave for Fremont, “the Center of the Universe” as the people here say. In this district of Seattle, on the other side of the Aurora bridge, a lot of artist settled here halfway the last century, so there are many works of art. Also headquarters of Geocaching is established here. Now we are in Seattle we want to visit HQ.

 

 

 

 

We ordered tickets for noon today but going here by train and bus went faster than we expected, so we have all the time to grab some geocaches, drink coffee, visit the Troll under the bridge and of course the statue of Stalin, before going to headquarters. Although we have been here three years ago, it is fun to look around and of course we glue our picture in HQ photo book. We are now in book 2 and 7.

After one hour we leave GEO Headquarters and walk back to the bus stop. In downtown Seattle, we leave the bus and search for the “Bubbles from Amazon”.  According to the bus driver you should have been here.

 

 

 

 

The Bubbles are not finished but nevertheless, impressive. We can imagine that when these Bubbles (the Spheres) are ready and serve as alternative workspace, the employees of Amazon come to inspirational thoughts. Close to the “Amazon Bubbles” is a Macy’s Store, so Dick cannot refuse to go inside with me. With Dick there’s no way of long shopping (unfortunately) but I am glad to find a “sport top” from Calvin Klein and after half an hour we walk back to the bus stop and back to the station.

 

 

At 6 pm we are at the State Fairgrounds in Puyallup and after drinking some soda I have to pick blackberries. In the bushes around the fair grounds are massive amounts of blackberries and within half an hour I have a tub full of delicious tasteful blackberries, some of them I process to compote and we eat quite a few of these excellent fruits before going to bed.